CHAPTER 3
V
O
Y
A
G
I
N
G
DREAMING
Julie comes home. I find out from her that
it's the 11th of January.
Tomorrow is wednesday, the
twelfth.
It would be a good day for
hitching North.
Many British lorry drivers would be
returning
from weekly European
trips
aiming to spend their weekends at
home.
Besides, i want to be into my life
at home
base
by the 15th.
So
tomorrow will be the
day!!
Julie is a little upset that i
am going to leave tomorrow.
"Why don't you stay a few more
days?"
But she accepts my reasoning and i go into
my room to pack.
'My room is no
longer mine.
My room has magically
disappeared.
I am evaporating.
I collect my toys, having
scattered them about the room,
and return them to the ruck-sack.
I pack everything except the clothes i shall
be wearing.
In departure time,
i cannot help but think of
Arrivals
and
Departures.
My life is built upon
them.
And at every departure
time,
the real substance of my life
is highlighted.
Bob and Julie, Michele,...
become beings in a
dream,
as i become for
them,...
a being in a
dream.
Special
Dreams --to which we can
return--
but
dreams,
non-the-less.
Dreams
we can re-enter,
at another phase in
the
dream..
What is life, but a dream of evolving
dreams?
And with every departure,
the time for
movement
arrives.
The hitch-hiking
mode
arrives.
The
QUICK-time
of
Arrivalsanddeparturesentrancesandexits
of
single
, isolated,
dream
-
bubbles
arrive.
I want to eat a good breakfast at about 6
am
and be out at the 144 bus stop by 7
am.
All my effort now is geared to
such a demand.
How shall i wake in
time?,
--i borrrow an alarm clock from
Julie--.
What shall i exactly eat in the morning?
--layed out and ready--.
Where shall i leave the key to the
apartment?
--on Julie's desk, having
already asked her.
My mind doesn't stop going
through the innumerable details
involved in exiting from this
friendship cocoon
in which i was so comfortably
berced for the last
eight days.
Julie talks warmly about the
next time i shall visit them.
A
WEAKNESS IN MY ARMOR
On the morrow, everything works
like clockwork.
I am at the bus stop by 7
am.
I'm feeling great were it not
for one important, unexpected
failure;
one that snuck its way in last
night.
It was the local problem of
getting a good night's sleep.
I wasn't able to sleep.
I lay on the bed the entire
night;
my mind
refusing to turn off.
The
night before i left England,
i couldn't coax my mind to
sleep.
Also, the night before i left
Michele's house in Toulouse, last week,
it
refused to sleep.
And, it refused the night
before my morning takeoff from
Lyon.
A new pattern seems to be
emerging.
I don't know why?
Perhaps
i really have to tire myself
just before i go to bed
the day before i leave to
hitch-hike?,
instead of taking it as a day of
rest?
In my nearly forty years of
hitch-hiking,
i never before confronted this
problem.
And a
big problem it is.
I am
beginning this
hitching,
in a sleepy state.
What a
drag!
I don't feel it now so much.
But in six hours time
i will be bearing it-as-a-burden.
However,
I know i am now accustomed to this extra
burden.
I know it doesn't kill me.
It weighs heaviest
when things
are not
going well.
It's a challenge that, later, invigorates
the spirit.
It proves the fundamental
resiliency that one posesses.
It helps deny the weakness excuse for not
living full-throttle.
THE MAGIC MARSH
I stand at the bus stop in the darkness
waiting
for the marvelous
--the public vehicle that will carry me on
my way.
Nobody else waiting
at the bus stop.
Are the buses working?
I'm getting worried.
Slow down i tell myself.
Sure enough, after five minutes
of early morning quietness,
a thirty-five year old guy
shows up.
He's wearing a suit below his
smart-cut, light overcoat.
He's got a tie on. He's well
shaved and his shoes are shining.
He's carrying a polished, black
leather hand bag
for his personal and his
business needs.
There is no criciticism to be
made about his dress.
No doubt he is going to
work.
The contrast between him and
me,
as viewed inside my mind,
gives me a great sense of liberty.
I feel younger than he is,
and older than he
is.
By just that amount that
he appears bound to his
work,
i feel myself to be free.
Free almost as the birds are free.
And just as vulnerable as the birds i might
appear.
For my route, inside the whole
shebang,
is taking an unpredictable
route, the hitch-hiker's route.
While he, for his part in the
whole shebang,
when he goes to work, like
today,
or tomorrow ,when he goes on
vacation,
will take the standard,
comfortable, forseeable route
of the money-
paying voyager.
The non-trial route.
As though arriving at Y, coming
from X,
is always more
important than
what the unexpected can
contribute on the way.
In this latter part of my life
i have grown not less
but even more antagonistic
to such
normality.
I have developed, with the piling up years,
a positive passion
for
the
unexpected
--the magic marsh in which space-time has
no order--
What grossly happens not
forseeable
and, because of that,
loved.
TESTING MYSELF
Before i started out on this
present hitch-hiking voyage,
i was uncertain
about my physical capacity to
endure
the demands normally made upon the
hitch-hiker.
After four years' break,
i understood this voyage
as a test of my
'youthfulness'.
Before i began
it,
i had already confirmed that my body
was
in better shape than it had been
since i injured my shoulder two years
before.
I had restarted my late-night, long-distant
runs
to and along the
Brighton shore.
I hadn't been able to run like that since
the accident.
So i felt better and just ripe
for a real test:
a month hitch-hiking through
France
visiting dear, dear
friends.
Two more people show up.
They add nothing to my
certitude
of the bus showing up.
The guy with the suit had
totally dispelled my fears.
Then, as a gift from the
Cosmos,
the 144 bus to the Metro
station, Pont de Neuilly
comes smiling up the road,
and stops to perform its miracle.
BRUSHED BY A SEXUAL
MAGNET,
AND REBRUSHED
..I enter a metro car.
Not very many riders. It's
early.
There's space between
people.
I take a seat. Feeling good. I
know where i am going.
The stations are speeding
past.
It would be crazy to use the
double-change, Stalingrad route.
Just lie back and feel good.
The stations will whiz by.
I grow calm again.
Thinking ahead,
i imagine the worst that could
happen
is that Eric is not there
and i would be forced to climb the
fence.
The station advertisements
speed by.
The most frequent one is
a grandiose,
three-times life-size, photo
taken from the side of the bed
at bed
height
of a very
good
looking
woman
lying on her back
on an unmade mattress
with her nude legs spread
wide.
I'm not interested in the
advertisement's words.
I am searching out her
smile
and also how far into
one dimly-lighted section of
the photo i
can see.
The stations go whizzing
past.
No doubt millions of male
voyagers, going to and from work,
are unconsciously sucked
also
into this same
unconscious-conscious, innocent-non-innocent
striving.
I am leaving this city. I am
putting into the closet my self in Paris.
COLD-HEARTED
As i arrive at street level,
having emerged from The Metro at
"La Corneuve 8 Mai",
there is a crowd hustling to get
on both tramcars.
I have no time to stop and
stare.
I have no
time.
I race into one of the
crowds
and ask the
person, accidentally in front of
me,
"Is this the tramcar going to "Hotel de
Ville, Corneuve" ?
And luck is with me. It is this
tramcar.
I lift my rucksack into it and
away we go.
"Danton"
is the next stop. I recognize it. I am going the right way.
"Systems
all go" i say to myself as final
blast off from Paris nears.
At the tramstop Hotel de Ville,
Corneuve, i get off.
i look around
and
pick out the big INTERMARCHE
sign.
It signals the road i have to
walk down,
because it's the road of the
249
and upon it, a hundred yards
away,
on the other side
of the
street,
is
the bus stop
Marmoz, Henri Barbusse.
Yeah. All is going
well.
This is the exact route i took by foot
yesterday.
Details on it, i had spotted
yesterday,
come at me
in reverse order. I am on my way.
My body is surging forward of
itself...
pulling its obligatory load of
wheeled rucksack.
Pulling it with a sense of
absolute necessity.
My mind is not thinking of
it.
It is looking round.
It's still sort of dark. Kids are going to
school.
Young adolescents and younger still.
The atmosphere is warm and
non-menacing.
I have not to worry about being
attacked.
Yesterday, as today, there is no menace at
all.
Good friendship feelings are in the
air
as the school-kids walk in pairs and
triplets
.......... not noticing
me.
The paranoia i had picked up in the
newspapers
--the reported violence in these
working class neighborhoods--
is dispelled in seconds. I don't return to
that thought again.
My present, local
problem is to find the telephone booth.
It's in front of the housing project but
further
up the street
than i had ever gone.
(The
project's extensive grounds
surround
about ten
eight-story buildings.
This is my imaginings.
I never tried to understand this housing
project.
In the many times i had encountered it, i
was in a hurry to hitch;
Too much of a hurry, and too burdened by my
rucksack
to stop
and look at 'a housing project'.
What alone interested me was
how to get through it to the
ServiceStation.
I knew nothing of the project's life.
I didn't care.
I, to it, am a
coldhearted lover.
)
P
A N I
C
There's the telephone booth.
Inside of it, i
realize that i am about to confront
one of the inbuilt uncertainties lying in
wait for me
and now
come to the top of the deck.
Does my telephone card have an
unused unit
with which to telephone
Eric?
Out i get the phone card, stick it into the
telephone and ...
BINGO. I'm being given the dial tone. I am
able to make this call.
"Hello. Can I speak to
Eric?"
Pause and then a voice says,
..''Yes. This is
Eric."
"Hi!"
i answer.
"This is that Englishman you spoke to
yesterday."
"The hitch-hiker?"
"Yes. I'm one minute
away."
"Ohh. Yeah. I'll go open the
door."
"Great!"
And i hang up and spring into
the housing project pulling my
cart.
And now it seems i'm truly
approaching blast-off.
Into the housing project
grounds i plunge.
I recognize nothing.
I realize i haven't ever
approached from
this entrypoint.
So i try to situate myself with
respect to the larger
geography.
I make an estimate and
determine
what direction i should
travel.
And
plunge in that
direction,
over the ground's paths and
muddy green.
Going to where i want to go,
whether or not a cemented path
exists.
I'm in the panic of the
takeoff.
I'm getting nearer and nearer to the other
side of the project .
Its
back side. The motorway side..
When i get to what i think should be the
back,
i recognize nothing. The services are
nowhere in sight.
I can't even hear the roar of the motorway
traffic.
I must have gone too much to the left. I'll
walk more
to the right.
More panic walking.
More confusion. I recognize
nothing.
A corrogated iron fence of a
large, internal parking lot confronts
me.
I never saw it before in my
life.
I'll have to go around
it.
Where the fuck am i?
The door to the motorway is
open and waiting for me
and i'm lost.
What the fuck is going
on?
My cart gets caught in the mud
of the green.
I'm not waiting for it to
roll.
I won't stop and clean its
wheels.
I am just manhandling
it.,
dragging it by force behind
me.
I'm in a panic.
What the fuck is going
on?
Why can't i find the stupid
Services?
My trainer shoes, in part made
of canvas, are decked with mud.
I'm now sliding through the mud
sludge.
Where the fuck am i?
Why am i panicking?
I know i don't have a good
sense of direction,
but this takes the
cake!
INSIDE THE PROMISED
LAND
Finally,
finally,
after climbing a mound of mushy clay
with sparce grass haphazardly
string-greening the brown scene,
i, at its soggy top,
spy
the Services
and its entrance,
and hear, for the first time,
the roar
of the flood
that's going to bear me to England.
Takeoff is about to
happen.
A driver is going to say with a
smile, "Yes. Hop in."
Hundreds of happy kilometers
are going to be spent
discussing some part of the
world most interesting to him.
I am soon going to be
entertained and entertaining
as the kilometers between me
and the Calais port diminish to zero.
I push at the heavy iron door.
It's moving! It's open!
I shut the door behind me.
I am in the grounds of the
Services.
It looks as dead as yesterday.
I trudge through theStation's side-door.
Downstairs are the toilets.
I better clean the mud off of the
cart
and the ugly caked-mud from my
trainers
before i start asking people for a
lift.
"But first things first" i say to
myself
and, leaving the cart with my rucksack
before the toilet stairwell,
i quickly walk to the front of
the deserted shop
where the guy behind the till is busy with
something. It's Eric.
"Thanx a
lot!"
"Oh. Its nothing."
He doesn't seem as though he wants to talk
with me.
He has pressing work to do. So i
leave him
and lower my cart down the two flights of
stairs
into the hardly used toilets.
There,
alone,
i take a good crap,
a good piss,
a good wash of my trainers
and
a good wash of myself.
In the mirror i judge myself
again to be in agreeable, visual shape.
Up the stairs to begin the takeoff.
"Wow! Wow! I'm on my
way!"
My
preliminary
song
leading
to
THE BIG
QUEST
ION:
"I
am hitch-hiking",
i say simultaneously pointing
to my rucksack.
"I
am going to Calais. Are you going in that
direction?"
I know that this Service
Station
serves only one side of the motorway.
All traffic is going in my direction.
Therefore,
Why do i pose
the question
"Will you
take me as far as you
can?"?
The essential
questions are,
"Will you
take me?" and
"How
far?"
But how pose these
questions?
One month ago, I began this hitch-hiking
voyage with a style
that abruptly posed this important question
of mine:
"I'm going to Toulouse. Could you give me a
lift?"
That, i learnt, is less than the best and
changed my approach.
THE FIRST FEW SECONDS
Usually, a driver first sees a
hitch-hiker
as a tiny pinpoint up-ahead on
the side of the road
and then as a growing
pinpoint,
and then as a guy, bodily,
imploring passing drivers,
and only then, a little while longer,
another ingredient is
added:
a sign
is being waved directly at the driver
and is now big enough to read.
The driver reads,........
"X"
and knows that the guy waving the
sign
is definitely a 'hitch-
hiker'
and that the sign is saying,
"
(We are going in the same
direction.)
I am going to
X.
(How far are you going?)
Will you give me a lift?"
But,
here,
on the grounds of a Service Station,
i'm not carrying a sign,
nor am i on the side of a one-way
road.
My voice and general outward
appearance
must deliver the necessary information
and
The Big
Question.
I usually approach male drivers
after i have determined they are alone in
their car.
People together usually don't want
company.
A woman alone won't take me under any
circumstances.
Twice or thrice in my life
--and that was when i was a young
man---
had a woman alone, taken me.
Though i still, from time to time, play with
possibilities,
and pose my question to a woman
alone,
her response is always,
"No."
A very solid
NO.
Distrust,
from fear of violence,
has grown to become
a hiding
monster
rearing its head and doing
its
damage
in the first few, all-important, seconds
of
contact.
It is the hitch-hiker's first, major,
unconscious
...obstacle.
A man,
alone,
looking at me and
seeing
a guy,
a couple of inches below normal size,
who seems
quietly talkative and happy,
learns
immediately
that he can trust me and even
find me entertaining.
At least that is my very conscious
goal.
And yet,
my approach is nearly always
touched with some violence.
For
i must
seize
--the
opportunity--
his
presence.
Because of this unexpected incursion
--i am obliged to make--
into the life of another,
creating trust is foremost.
While a driver is coming out through the
door of the Stationstore,
returning to his car
and the long road ahead,
I intercept him
to pose to him
The Big
Question for me.
No matter where he is in his
trajectory
--anywhere in his walk to the car--
I would intercept him.
Though he was already in gear
--seconds before his takeoff--
I'd come trotting up to his
side window
and say something to him
through
the window glass.
He'd turn to me, somewhat
surprised, and role down the window.
He has no idea what i
want.
I am not on the side of the
road.
We are in a Service
Station.
Perhaps,
he didn't notice me on the fore-court of the
Station,
going over to cars and people
and having quick, easy
chats?
For him, I could be either
another car driver,
or a car inhabitant,
or a Service Station worker.
These are the constants of the
Service Station's life.
Being a hitch-hiker,
i fall into the category of
'unpredictable
appearances'.
Who am
I???
Before he roles down the protective car
window
he looks at
me.
I don't look dangerous or angry.
I am trying to look a little
pressed.
Yes.
I'm in a hurry to takeoff.
So my minor look of
urgency
combines with his expectancy of who i might
be,
and he usually judges the scene
sufficiently non-threatening and
possibly
important
to roll down his car window.
And now you know why i begin by
saying
"I
am hitch-hiking" ,
and, simultaneously, point
to my rucksack.
I am alleviating any
sense of danger on his part.
I am showing him that i am an honest
person
--not trying to trick him
into giving answers
to questions
which he might think are coming from
the mouth of a bona fide
Station
employee
and, then, deviously, lay on him
The
Big hitch-hikers'
Question--.
No.
I am consciously radiating with my body and
my voice:
I am a hitch-hiker
and an honest
man
and
someone
who tries
to be happy
and
constructive.
And with this, all-important, component
weaved
within,
i pose
The Big
Question:
"I
am going to X. Are you going in that
direction?"
AN UNTHREATENING LAND
It's curious that, in originally writing
this down, i didn't think of
the extra, hidden
power i have
in this very particular,
chessboard game.
A very Big power it is.
I speak french well and we are in
France.
Good conversation is possible.
Also, i have an obvious and
pleasant english-american accent.
The french drivers who hear me understand me
to be
a foreign, easy-going man of
a certain age
who speaks french.
i am temptingly intriguing starting from
the very first seconds.
Some drivers want to practice their
English.
Some drivers want to hear about
my wandering life
which they first suppose i live
all the time
and not as i do from time to time, once a
year or twice.
On this voyage, till now, i didn't speak
about myself.
(There really were no
requests.)
In fact, I mostly find myself very
comfortably listening
and responding to the concerns of the
driver.
I am searching for some way to be of aid to
him,
someway to pay the implicit debt i have to
him.
We both feel we
only have
this hour,
or these two hours, to
enjoy
together.
So we play at conversation with
each other. And exchange many
facts.
Many intimate facts about
ourselves to the other,
without naming names, without
giving addresses.
We are in an
unthreatening land
where there are no direct
causalities from it to our dayly lives.
A land
which can only re-emerge in our
separate futures
through our own, independent
and separate
uses
of it;
the future uses
of a
conversation
in a car
between oneself
and
a forgotten driver or a
forgotten hitch-hiker.
By the time i finish with my little,
preliminary song and dance:
"I
am hitch-hiking" , i say
simultaneously
pointing to my
rucksack.
"I am going
to Calais. Are you going in that
direction?",
i believe the decision to take me, or
not, has already been made.
Further entreaties are futile. Worse.
They leave a bad
taste in the mouth of the driver,
who, sometime in the
future,
will encounter other hitch-hikers.
Thus, an inescapable karmic
relationship
ties me to other hitch-
hikers.
I give gifts, helpful and
unhelpful, to other hitch-hikers
through drivers.
And they to me.
VIOLENCE AND
HARMLESSNESS
All the motorcars and trucks and vans and
motorcycles,
passing through this
Station,
are 'forced' by motorway rules
to go in the same direction
till, at least,
the
next exit.
So my preliminary song's question,
"Are
you going in that direction?",
has only
YES
for an answer.
I have subtly biased
the response
to the follow-up,
really
Big
Question.
The hitch-hiker's Big
Question,
"Will
you take me?"
As i use this form of question
making,
breaking up The Big
Question, into two questions,
the first of which, the
preliminary,
has always the answer
"Yes",
with all consciousness of its manipulative
power,
HOW SAYING
YES.
BREEDS THE DESIRE TO SAY
YES
AGAIN
am i not creating a
sort of violence engine,
which converts a legitimate desire
to say
"No"
to me,
into an ambivalent bitter taste in the
driver's mouth
when his
"No"
is to
be recited?
Mia
Culpa.
Having received the pleasure of having
already said
"Yes"
to me,
a certain sense of loss might come upon him
were he to follow
with a
"No".
Every offer of friendship is
a covert offer of love.
How many
"Yes"
answers
(implicit or explicit)
does it require for making a
friend?
The first "Yes" is a step in
that direction.
A mighty step in my
case.
For i have come upon the driver
totally unexpectedly:
from out of
the night-time
blazing
lights
of a
Service
Station,
or from out of
the
day's
rainy-grey
mists,
or,
like a dazzling flower,
from out of
a
sunny
morning.
"What
would it have been like",
the driver might ask himself,
"had i given this
interesting guy
another
"Yes"?
For those drivers with good
reasons to not take me,
the hurt caused
is the sensed loss of a possibly lovely
time.
This is my violence to them.
A teeny-weeny fantasy
violence.
For those others
--and luckily they are a amall
minority--
who say
"No"
with
only
the unvoiced excuse:
"Why the
fuck is he asking me to help
him?",
(or any variety of the ten
thousand societal condemnations
of
the
social underdogs,
promoted, legitimated
and hurriedly imbibed
to protect
the psychic well-being
of the puffed-up),
their negative might boumerang in their
souls.
My offer of friendship, albeit tinged
with self-interest,
is rejected
for no other reason than an inhuman
prejudice.
A subtlly induced,
self-hurt
is, thereby, caused
producing
a further hardening of their
heart.
BUT,
when i
ask
The
hitch-hiker's Big
Question,
i am not interested in hurting the
person
who gives me a "No"
for
whatever reason.
For if he is pleased by our contact, leaving
it up-spirited,
he will, maybe at the next opportunity, give
some other hitch-hiker a lift.
And even if he
didn't, he has his reasons.
We are entitled to our own reasons.
We are caught in our own
reasons.
Being aware of the potentially violent
effect,
of my question technique, i take precautions
to cure the harm
before it passes from short to long-term
memory.
To the many who say "No",
i have evolved a
response,
a magic tap of lighthearted,
up-comment,
"Well,
a thousand thanks anyhow!"
and really mean it.
Or some joke, if it is appropriate.
Or a question that he can give
me an answer to
and thereby restore his sense of 'doing
good'.
I am not usually in such a dead
location
in which i have to rely upon
one driver
to get me out.
So its easy come, easy
go.
Someone, from this roulette of
life, shall pop the exciting
"Yes!".
Somehow, for some driver soon,
the alchemicals will read
green
and, then, with a kid's
excitement,
off i'll scamper
to get my ruck-sack
for take-off.
PICKLES
But difficult situations, pickles, do
sometimes occur.
I was with Christine -- the
woman i made a child with--
before we had consciously thought of making
children,
in a time of our
wooing,
when we were carving out the foundations of
our being
as a
couple.
We were going to be heroic. That, for
sure.
In the early hours of the
morning, in a rough and cold night,
with negative body
implications
were we to remain outdoors for
several more hours,
with no refuge from the night
available to us,
and only a truck
in a truckman's yard in a
closed-for-the-night,
wholesale fruit and vegetable
market,
and we in its dark
recesses.
We were hitching and we arrived
there.
And Christine was worried by
the darkness and the lonely
location.
One truck,
and the truckman had just
awoke, and was starting up his truck.
I ran over.
I ran over as a man who was
kissing the dust before a saviour.
I explain him our situation.
That all we want to do is get to a
motorway Services, or lacking
that, back into Paris. We had to get
out. We were desperate.
He said "No".
But i wouldn't let him stay
with it. He had to take us with him.
It was a question of life and
death.
I became very frantic and very
clear.
"There are no other trucks
around. It is you or no one! "
To this passionate request, he
could not refuse.
I believe there was one other
time,
in all the years of my
hitch-hiking,
in which i was forced to plead with all my
heart.
To throw my body before a stranger and
implicitly say,
"If you refuse me,
you will be conscious of having been
inhuman."
This is almost impossible for most people to
accept.
And, by nature's
natural balance, it is probably impossible
for a person, who is not in extreme
circumstances,
to emit
the call of the desperate.
HITCHING ON THE
FORECOURT
I've set my rucksack up just beside the
door, under the awning
outside.
It's in clear sight from most everywhere on
the forecourt.
And being adjacent to the door,
--through which all those paying
for their petrol must pass
on their way to Eric, seated
behind the counter within--
it gives the drivers a hint that a
hitch-hiker is lurking about.
Who he is, when the Services is very busy
--not the case now--
is not obvious;
roaming, as i might be through
the store,
chatting, as i might be to the
employees,
talking, with one or two of the
drivers,
as i make lively, lively contact
with my social
surrounds.
I become an important being:
one of the welcoming team
in this transient waystation.
I interest myself in
everything.
My soul sings.
I sow joy here
as part of my self-decreed
obligation.
But, also,
staging my preliminary dance, singing my
preliminary song,
and then posing
The Big
hitch-hiker's
Question.
And not stop dancing and singing till
someone says
"Yes!"
and i'm running for my rucksack
preparing for takeoff.
TIMIDNESS
Hitch-hiking is not for the timid,
though many a timid person
hitch-hikes.
I suppose they rely largely
on a driver's unpressured,
social conscience:
on his private recognition of
someone in need
and his private, decision-making
conscience.
"You
have taken me", i suppose they
implicitly say to the drivers,
"and i have not asked
you.
You posed The Big Question to
yourself
and because you said
"Yes"
to yourself,
you approached
me."
A timid me,
hitch-hiking at a Service
Station,
would stand immobile next to my
rucksack,
as isolated cars separate out from the
flood
and, into the Station, slowly
cruise
in order to understand theStation's
geography
and con out what route through it, or
parking space in it, to take.
Timid me wouldn't make a move.
I would be as a statue, a timeless element
of the Station's forecourt,
not following the car with my eyes,
refusing to react to any movements happening
around me,
solely concentrating on my own internal
space and its dialogue,
What kind of being would i be?
Not even to think on hitch-hiking
and let the cosmos select the
world i am to meet next,
what kind of being would i be?
i would be fashioning myself 'a guru' to an
outside viewer.
To myself, maybe i would be testing 'the
cosmos'?
Certainly, i would be 'going against the
grain' of the life there.
I have never taken nor contemplated this
ultra-passive mode.
It would lay too much psychic weight on the
drivers.
It would pin me down too much, inside the
car.
I like flexibility.
On this voyage so
far, one guy,
--before i could say anything--
surprised me with a
"Yes",
because he thought i was an
artist.
He, looking out, had seen me through the
glass door.
He had studied me and decided to take
me.
(I, vaguely, recall someone looking at me
through the Station's
glass door.
But i continued looking the other way
--out at the forecourt, 'looking for a
lift'.)
HELP ALWAYS COMES
And even if i did not have within me
a guru image of myself
but assumed and radiated an extreme
catatonic posture,
--and this is the deep truth of
hitch-hiking--
there would always be a driver who would
stop for me.
This market always
clears.
For the gurus as well as the insane as well
as the normal.
The offer is always finally matched.
It may take hours and
hours,
like seven hours,
or a day and a half in quiet, quiet
locations.
Or a week for a lift to cross a
desert.
(I have never been so bold as to hitch-hike
cross a desert
but have spoken to people who have.)
The writer of these lines admits to the
speed disease.
As a hitch-hiker, I want to move
fast.
Rarely, have i gotten into 'desperate'
situations
where the next lift seems days
away.
But it has happened.
Once, i was
up in northern Germany, on some
side road in a small town,
a holiday-festival,
blazing-hot, summer day.
The entire community is flying
in happy, loving alcoholia.
Nobody is driving.
And the sun is beating down.
And i'm taking it full blast,
but, being young, i brave ahead
brutally,
continue to stand there in the
sun,
(me, who reacts to the sun as
an albino
with sunburn, eyestrain and
headaches),
continue to flag at the rare
car that passes.
I don't speak the
language.
i have a fear of the people's
drunkenness.
So i stay where i am, and
continue to be
a weary, pleading youth
by the side of the road
signalling irrelevances to the
local trickle of traffic.
Hours are passing and I am
seriously dehydrating.
But there will always come
along some human being
who takes an interest,
for one reason or
another,
in a hitch-hiker
wherever he be, however he
be,
whoever he be.
A police van pulls up,
i shout to them where i want to go,
continuing to play the hitch-hiker's role to
the driver of the van.
They get out of their van and slowly
approach me.
But because i don't speak German and they
don't speak English,
the complexities are reduced.
I feel innocent as a one-day-old
baby.
They mime something and say,
"Passport!"
I give them my passeport.
I don't let that shake my sense of self as
'a hitch-hiker'.
They invite me into their van. I interpret
it as a hitch-hike.
But, I am not as happy as i usually am. I am
subdued.
They are not trying to speak to me. They are
talking to each other.
I have become a pawn rather than a
partner.
They take me to a Police Station.
They consult a machine. That takes thirty
minutes.
Finally, being satisfied of my
'innocence',
satisfied also with my civility while with
them,
they --for those reasons or for a matter of
courtesy, or justice--
then, drive me out to a
ferry-crossing,
pay for my ticket and buy me some
food.
On the other side of the river, they point
out
a very good road
for continuing my hitch-hike.
On that road, with not five
minutes sun-kissed into the past,
Heinz comes along and
stops
and seriously proposes to drive
me to Great Britain.
We blast along at speeds in
which mad youth exhilarates.
But i cannot really be inviting
him to go out of his way several
days.
He is a radio, disc-jockey,
regional 'star'. His life is soaring.
There is nothing he would not
consider that has heart.
And 'Going to Great Britain to
take a hitch-hiker home'
seems reasonable enough. Why
not? He has a couple of days to
spare!
But i tell him "No. No. No."
and he eventually finds real reasons for
driving me to a Service Station
on the Motorway
and probably not the
nearest.
The market always clears.
The hitch-hiker, somehow,
eventually,
is
home.
TIMIDITY AND ME
This timid type of human
filter,
--filtering drivers
by timidly soliciting
"Yes"--
this type of timid filter
who doesn't want to participate
in the drivers'
recognitions and the drivers'
decisions
about
The Big
Question,
is not my
natural style of relatedness and
happiness.
So mostly, and closest to my
joy,
i'm an active
hitch-hiker,
agile and happy,
talking with everybody, joking
with everybody, bouncing
off everybody. Life is a
playful carnival when i'm on the road.
Except, at special moments,
when i panic.
Here's a driver just finished paying
Eric.
He's approaching the exit door
outside of which i am standing, just
alongside my rucksack.
He has just this instant passed me,
possibly seeing me looking at him.
(Most times, drivers just come
out the door
and
behaving as if i don't exist, continue their
trek to their car,
thinking of other things.
For them, i have to be outrightly
audacious.)
With speed and boldness
i intercept him,
stop him in his path,
force his recognition of
me,
confront him
with my preliminary song and
dance,
...and, then.. pose
The Big
Question.
And, now,
i receive for the fifth time,
the same response,
"I'd take you if i were going
far.
I'm only going to Charles
DeGaule airport."
THE TRUTH GROWS
LARGE
UNTIL IT BECOMES INESCAPABLE.
AN UNDESIRED REALITY
INTERCEPTS ME.
"Fucking hell. Nobody's going further than
the airport."
And I think there's a Service Station
just 5 kilometers beyond the airport.
But nobody is going further than the
airport.
And many, too many,
are taking the next exit.
This is mostly 'local traffic':
This Petrol Station is mostly a local
convenience.
That which i cannot use now is 'local
traffic'.
Such traffic will circulate within Paris
forever
and i want to leave Paris now.
By the low 90's of their number plates, I
can recognize local traffic.
My fate here is linked to the
intercity car.
I'm dependant on the intercity
crowd.
I have intercity goals right
now.
Maybe that's the nature of
life?
I could have
said,
"My fate here is linked to the intracity
car.
I'm dependant on the intracity crowd.
I have intracity goals right now."
But i didn't because
i have intercity goals right
now.
i have stake in a biased
reality.
But my intercity goals seem to
be
out of reach from this Service
Station;
my biased reality, a present
insanity.
I go inside the Station,
and pose a query to Eric who
responds,
"Ohh Yeah. Yesterday was the
last day to buy petrol
before the added tax comes into
effect.
So everybody filled up yesterday."
I should have known what that meant when he
said that.
He's mostly talking about the local
traffic.
But i didn't pick that up
and i go out to do a stint of
hitch-hiking,
and receive the same two answers:
"I'm going to the Airport. I'll
take you if you want to go,"
or
"I'm getting off the next exit.
"
So i pop again into Eric's
domain,
and tell him of my findings:
that "no-one is going beyond
DeGaulle."
"Ohh Yes", he says.
"They've built a new motorway which goes
north.
This station is no longer used."
HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL
And now,
i had to confront suddenly
a
truth
that another hour or two
of whatever i might
do
could not alter:
"My favorite
hitching place has become a fucking
dead-end."
Fucking Hell.
What am i now going to do?
I have to get back to Brighton in two day's
time.
In my hitch-hiking
plans,
i never considered other
transport solutions.
I didn't search out the buses that, for a
whack of money,
would carry my body from Paris to
London.
Perhaps, i should have put more energy into
that?
All my eggs went into the
hitch-hiking basket.
My only backup
is a very costly, one-way train
ticket.
Fucking
Hell!.
But still the cars and trucks
are roaring by.
They all can't be going to the
airport!
There must be a few going
further.
And a certain percentage of
this few,
no matter how small,
must have been given, in the
last few minutes, a need
by
The Cosmos:
petrol
or something else
this deadened Services can
offer.
Relying
on this meagerest of chances,
i return to doggedly asking everybody for a
lift.
And the same two answers are repeated and
repeated.
Except for
two cars which went too far.
They actually didn't know
they had passed through
Paris.
They were going back the other way.
Fucking Hell.
This is a dead-end.
I'll have to take the train.
Which means i have to get back to the center
of Paris.
What a drag!
I'll try some more.
Maybe the dice
are not so perfectly loaded
against me?
THE COSMOS RESPOND
A guy pulls over to the side of the
forecourt,
gets out,
makes a quick-step, round-trip to Eric in
the Service Station
and then, gets behind the wheel
and starts to
gun
his motor.
i run over, intercept him and perform for
him
my preliminary dance and my
preliminary song
and he, in return,
gushes out,
" You are
completely in the wrong spot.
Everybody is now taking a new
motorway
that meets up with this one just beyond
De Gaulle airport.
But i'll take you to your best place.
Porte de la Chapelle."
With a hesitant and idiot response, i ask
him,
"Is
that in Paris?"
which i do in order to gain time
and think, and be able to say
--when he says,
"Yes. It's in
Paris"--
"Yeah. Why
not? I got to get out of
here."
And away i run to return with my
wheeled ruck-sack
and take my seat alongside
this helpful guy.
He tells me that he is the local,
'Supervisor
of Motorway Service Station
Constructions'.
The Cosmos might have sent the
best adviser that i can have
for the rut i am in.
But it's not sure.
People who are not hitch-hikers
do not necessarily know
all the hitch-hikers'
problems.
After all,
Eric must think that i finally did get a
lift
beyond
DeGaulle Airport.
I didn't tell him why i was leaving.
I left like any
successful hitch-hiker.
So the next hitch-hiker,
who wants to hitch-hike from his
Station,
will receive the same 'helpful aid' he had
given me.
Unknowingly, he is hurting us.
But i am also responsible.
I should have ran into the
Station and told him why i was leaving
before i left.
It would have taken 30 seconds more.
But i was in an irrational hurry.
I was irrationally frightened of losing this
lift:
that he might drive off without
me
--something that never, ever happened to me,
once a "Yes" was
given--
I was thinking only of
myself.
Not of the other hitch-hikers who will come
after me.
Don't i want to aid them?
Can i not control my irrational
panic to aid them?
I don't like myself
when i bow to my irrational fears
and think only of myself.
It makes me feel very little, petty.
THE COSMOS
RETURNS ME TO
SQUARE-ONE
"Everybody who
hitches NORTH out of Paris,
hitches from the place
i'll take you to."
"But that's the problem", i
think to myself.
Hitching
from the standard
locations
means
hitching
alongside of ten other
hitch-hikers.
And that has its
problems.
Firstly there's a problem for men to get a
lift
when a woman is there.
No matter how long you're there,
And no matter how recent she's there,
And no matter where in the queue she
is,
the car will stop in front of her,
and the hours, for us men, will pass in
semi-despair.
Secondly, there is the explicit
competition
when several people are
hitching.
In such a situation, i try to enter into
some sort of accord with another
hitch-hiker.
"If you get a lift and there is
room for another,
will you ask the driver for me. I'll do the
same for you."
That is the best i can do, i think.
It creates a comradeship
that truly is lacking
when you find yourself in
a pack of competing, (though unspoken),
hitch-hikers.
Another technique is
to separate oneself off
from the whole line of hitch-hikers
by going up the road a hundred yards.
Those drivers, who refused to
stop,
--because they saw no way round
the unpleasant making of a choice--
seeing a lonely guy
and feeling a little guilty
for not having picked up
someone
from the dotted line of hitch-hikers,
might stop.
So, here i am going back to square one. As
though i was a novice.
But its in Paris,
and if square one doesn't work out,
there is always the
Metro.
I know, now, where he's going to take
me!
It is the standard, uncreative
solution!
The solution mated to the self-image
of
the classic, side of the road
hitch-hiker.
What the Henri Barbusse-no 149 Bus-Service
Station solution
saved me from!
Why didn't i think of it at the Service
Station, ten minutes ago?,
think of it, instead of the
train,
as an alternate solution?
Strange. I had completely forgotten
the ordinary hitch-hiker's solution
for going North out
of Paris,
the solution that every once-young Parisian
can
offer the
hitch-hiker.
And now we arrive.
He circles to a stop
at a corner of a vaste
intersection
of boulevard and motorway
spaghetti.
"Right there", he says as he
points.
"Right under that car bridge,
on the left hand side of the
road.
All the traffic going
intercity, northwards,
takes that left hand
choice.
And they can easily stop there,
too."
I look out
at his solution,
and realise its possibilities.
But it's a side-of-the-road,
beckoning-with-a-sign, style of
hitch- hiking.
Maybe there's some better place in this
mishmash of traffic?
Yes.
There's the red and green light system
that's controlling the flow.
I could stand next to one of them
and, on the red signal,
do my song and dance to the unmoving
drivers,
and get a "yes" before the light turns
green.
Ahh
No.
Its not so good. I have my
bulky, bulky rucksack.
The driver has to get out of his car
and unlock the boot
to store my rucksack.
It's too complicated for the little time
the red-light system gives
me.
No. I'd better first try the solution given
me by
The Supervisor of Service Station
Constructions.
BEFORE A GRUELLING
PROSPECT
The temperature has jumped downwards a few
degrees,
and the wind is blowing a bit
harder than at the Service Station.
"I better dress warmly before i
start hitching", i say to myself.
"This could take several hours."
"I'll put on my heavy sweater",
i decide to myself,
as i make my way to the left side of the
left mouth of traffic.
I step
on the 30 foot-long slab of concrete sidewalk
adjacent to the roaring,
absorbing mouth
into which the mess of traffic
plunges,
and stop and pause and look
around.
No one is here. Thank God. No
hitch-hiking competition.
Competition drives my spirit
downwards.
I don't know how to handle
competition.
I talk with it and manage a warmth that's
just skin deep.
This ambivalent, emotional reaction,
to my fellow
hitch-hikers,
does my sense of righteousness in.
I am confronted with a me whom i don't
like.
I better
get my sweater out from the rucksack
and also get my notebook
out
and draw a large, visible,
colorful sign
on one of its pages,
like
"GOING
NORTH?
I'M
FOR
CALAIS."
I get my sweater out,
and also my notebook.
I have not yet got out my
colour pens, when,
all of a sudden,
as i am shutting my rucksack's
major compartment,
a big, black car with a
smiling, round-faced driver
drops out of the noise-booming,
rushing fluid
and slowly rolls friendily up
to my perch
and stops his car.
For a moment, i assume he has
broken down or something.
But he's still smiling at
me
even after i do my preliminary
song and dance.
"I
am a hitch-hiker.
I am going to Calais.
Are you going in my
direction?"
But he's been smiling
throughout my performance,
and throughout my
performance
bobbing
Yes
with his head,
from before its beginning till
even after its finish
smiling
and
bobbing
Yes
with his head.
He pops out of his car to open
the boot for my dear rucksack.
I jump in, and away we
go.
"How
far are you going?" i automatically
question.
"Don't
worry. I'm going North and it's good for
you,"
he confidently
answers.
"Can you
leave me off
at the last Service
Station
before you leave the
motorway?"
"Sure. If
you want me to."
"Do you know
the last Service Station?"
Sure. No problem. You'll be dropped
exactly there."
Now, that i know that he will do
me well,
i relax
and almost can't believe my
luck.
"You picked
me up even before i put out my sign.
I wasn't there for more than 30
seconds."
I give him a friendly tap on his
shoulder nearest me.
"I really thank
you."
and tell him my day's
hitch-hiking story
but make it short. We have lot's of other
things to talk about.
THE JOY OF HITCH-HIKING
So, away we speed.
And talk.
He's the managing director of a
porcelain manufactury.
He's going to meet a client.
His company sells plates and cups and such
like things.
The industry measures the amounts sold in
tons.
The clients are charged by the piece.
And what clients he has.
Big institutions.
The French Army is one. But the Army's
budget is down 30%.
So business is difficult now.
Also, some Eastern European firms,
using cheap, East
European,
labor,
are undercutting the prices
with not such good goods, but good
enough.
From powdered dried-clay
pressure-stamped by powerful, by
powerful machines,
the plates are made.
Here's a guy who is in contact with his
instincts.
Firstly, he feels
the truth of a position
and, secondly, then he reasons.
He likes to be clear about things.
We entertain one another through
our conversation.
Somehow, we get to define
ourselves.
I am a man,
culpable
for having left his daughter
by leaving his family.
But i don't suffer from guilt feelings at
all.
He is a man,
culpable
for participating in business
meetings
at restaurant tables.
"Somehow, i think business and pleasure
shouldn't mix.
It corrupts the business transaction", he
tells me.
We were sailing along at high
speed
and i felt so worldly
comfortable
that i turned my experienced
and helpful attention
from the menacing surrounds
which high speeds create,
entirely to him and
chatted,
and he from time to time would
look my way with a smile.
He is an optimist.
"The
glass is half-full,"
he tells me,
"and
not
half-empty."
The disarming nature of this guy makes me
like him.
He is, after all, my marvelous
angel of salvation.
Before i saw him,
in the pose i was then
contorting,
--preparing myself
for the great endurance test of
my voyage--
he selected me.
I could have been seen as a very untogether,
confused beggar-man
raking through his wheeled sack
of possessions
for something or other.
I was not evidently a hitch-hiker.
I wasn't asking anything of
anybody at that time
and yet he came over to me
and knew exactly what i
wanted,
and
"Yes",
he can and will aid me.
Such is the magical hitching power of Porte
de la Chapelle.
Such is the magical power of
this marvelous angel.
Such is the Cosmos laughing.
And then isn't
that
Director of Service Station
Constructions
another angel of
my salvation?
It was he that fetched me out
of
the dry well
and posed me at the mouth of this
navigable river.
And if that be the case,
and
two angels within me are
made,
then,
aren't they
the gift
also, of my
difficulties, today?;
and, also,
--the last, and most unexpected gift it
ever gave me--
of
MY PARIS SERVICE
STATION?
WHAT IS GOOD?
WHAT IS BAD?
THE WORLD CHANGETH.
THE COSMOS LAUGH.
After more than two hours of
mutual enjoyment,
he,
who is culpable
--mixing business with
pleasure--
leaves
me,
who is culpable
--having left a
daughter--,
leaves me
50 kilometres south of Calais,
just south of Bethune.
"Thanks
a lot" , i make a point to tell
him.
"This
is one of the most thankful lifts i've ever had.
After the morning's frustration
and energy loss,
before i could signal that i
was hitch-hiking, you
offered me a lift. And what a
lift! Two hundred miles or so!"
To this he answered,
"I
used to hitch-hike when i was
young,"
and off he drives to his
business lunch,
and off i walk to the Station's
Services
to hitch further and further
away from my daughter,
having seen her in
Toulouse.
HITCH-HIKING TIME
This Station's Services are
empty.
My wait here, easily, can stretch into
hours.
The traffic is so thin.
I know this type of small
Station.
On all the French motorways i've
travelled,
only at this extreme, narrow,
unbranching end
--where the traffic is mostly Calais
bound--
can you encounter motorway Stations so
small.
They are the only ones whose toilet
space
is bigger than their showroom space of their
goods on sale.
There are about three of them. Small like
this.
The crowded showroom
snuggly surrounds the electronic
cash box
--eighty percent of whose money intake comes
from petrol sales-
The vast spectrum of offerings
--beyond a pleasant display of
sweets--
includes
an open, serve-yourself refrigerator
--with cold, bottled
drinks--
and a robot which takes money
for its hot,
coffees and teas and soups.
This robot, as 'Homo Economicus'
---'Economic Man'---
is multifold, more valuable than
me.
I am a horrendously frugal consumer.
As a producer, i am an expendable
resource.
And i do like to hitch-hike.
3 STRIKES AGAINST ME
in my struggle for present survival.
I mention such considerations
to lay firm appreciation
for the level of humility, i must here
enact.
I am standing in Business Territory.
This particularly small Service
Station
is a business, founded on much
need, and a touch of temptation.
"Have
another sweety dear. It will be good for
you!"
and the uphit
that coffee gives to the tired.
I have to be real nice to the station
managers
at these types of
stations.
He and i might spend several hours
together
in this very small, goods-for-sale-crowded
room.
Outside, the wind-chill factor has become
serious.
I don't want to spend more than the time
needed
to pose my BIG QUESTION
to each driver
taking petrol from the pump,
or walking back to his car.
For, i feel obliged
to conduct my business
outside.
and if the answer is
negative,
to re-enter quietly, reverently, the
manager's life's space.
Because he hasn't spoken to me at
all,
dodging away from my offers of
conversation,
I have to be real nice, tread real lightly,
for this particular manager.
I better tune-in to what he is
doing,
dissipate any doubts he might have
about my presence amidst his
interests.
I'm here to be of service, if i can.
I am in a situation of cumulative
indebtedness
as the minutes tick on.
He continues to busy himself.
He hasn't stopped since i've gotten
in.
As though he's running away from
conversation.
I won't press him. I'll be as light as a
feather.
I'll have a paper cup of expresso from the
robot
and, thereby, prove that i understand the
social rules
and that i share the common
temptations.
I'm in the same situation as
being a hitch-hiker in a car.
But, at this Station
now,
i am hitch-hiking TIME
and not SPACE.
Does this mean
that
when i am a hitch-hiker in a
car
speeding in the direction i
want to go,
i am actually, also,
hitch-hiking TIME?
Of course, Yes.
The world-space inside the speeding
car
and
the world-space inside the immobile service
station,
are
not of
2
distinct, separable stuffings,
but are ultimately of inseparable, identical
stuff,
distinguished by unimportant
ephemera.
They are ultimately
1.
And i am smuggling my SPACE-TIME into them
both,
fusing with them both.
i am hitch-hiking.
And the
YES-saying
driver --if he be humble enough--
would see that
one of his own, internal
SPACE-TIME WORLDS
is hitch-hiking, smuggling
into,
the world space
made by his car and this stranger,
me.
Whose driving anyhow?
'The Car'
'The
Driver'
or 'Me'?
Or, why should i attribute special status to
a car's TIME?
Am i not always in my own, LOCAL
SPACE-TIME?
When particulars
change,
to coincide with one of the
infinite varieties
of SPACE-TIME the cosmos offers me,
why should i care?
Another particular will follow,
whatever i do.
Perhaps, a particular beyond my wildest
dreams?
Enough of all this flimsy,
flamsy!
I'm a hitch-hiker,
obliged
to get my ass to Brighton,
England
quick-time.
Standardized, Tick-Tock Time
and
Ordinance-Survey-Map Space
are cracking the whip, calling
the tunes.
State-kept Tick-Tock-Time,
State-kept Ordinance-Survey-Space
are
reaping their harvest.
The mice must scramble for the owner's have
returned.
Cindarella's midnight is
beginning to clang.
FREEDOM AND OPPORTUNITY
VERSUS THE PLAN
I know i have given up my freedom
in accepting such
institutionalised space-time constraints.
Indeed, i have never, for share pleasure,
hitch-hiked intercity.
And in so far as i
haven't done that,
i haven't burst the bounds of
the societally-defined 'hitch-hiker'
--who always is going to a
particular somewhere--
and truly leap into the emptiness
from which all things take their
beginnings.
There have been many, many
occasions
in my hitch-hiking life
in which i have had an
opportunity to jump
from my pre-planned path
and follow an offer.
On nearly every trip, there
is an offer.
On this return part of my
voyage,
as i was going north on the
motorway up from Toulouse,
fusing with the North-bound traffic
roaring upward
from the Italian andFrench Riviera,
as i was hitch-hiking at a Station
just South of the turnoff for
Charmonix
--the same ski-resort as
those young un's at Calais were hitching
to-
i met
a team of three video makers
on their way to this same ski resort,
Charmonix.
They were going to do some filming up
there.
My preliminary song and dance
must have impressed them.
The director really wanted me to accept a
lift with them.
His solid confidence was clearly
there for me to see.
He radiated his success in an easy and
confident style.
Somehow, he caught something attractive in
my being.
Why didn't i go with them,
propose a deal to work with them
for no cash but lots of learning?
And wouldn't those hitchiking young un's be
surprised at seeing me?
And wouldn't they be of aid, if aid i
needed?
Charmonix? Dare i?
"NO. Not this time. I must go quickly to
Paris," i, illogically, reasoned to myself
as i have done hundreds of times
before.
And yet, there were no
'musts'.
"I'm sorry i can't go with you," i feebly
expressed to them.
Ahh.
Life was on offer
and i was too foolish, even to
hesitate.
There's always invitations to
take another path.
Follow the wind.
And if your light enough, you
will be as the wind.
So that on every trip
an invitation will
occur,
which seems promising and
adventurous.
Hah. Advice is easy.
I never have truly, truly leapt.
i never have accepted complete
freedom.
I'll try to sometime in the
future just go off and wander.
Be open to the offers.
Wander to wherever.
PRESSING ON
But now i have a goal squeezing me.
It grabs me all of a sudden.
When i'm getting interested in
something else,
it says,
" Time to get going. Time to be off."
I got to get to Calais
Port.
Two spanish lorry
drivers have sort of tumbled in, making it
pretty crowded as they stand next to me,
talking, talking.
They are too wrapped-up in talking to each
other,
really enjoying each other,
to think about what has to be done
here,
what social graces to exhibit,
what purchases to make.
They are at ease and they talk and enjoy
talking.
One of them brushes passed me,
squeezing in to the narrow space
between
the robot machine
which exchanges hot drinks for
money
and my body
as my body is pressing itself against the
cash register's counter.
"The toilet is bigger than this showroom"
i would have joked to him,
in spanish
if i could.
I was amazed when i had first entered the
toilet.
It was as large a toilet as you would
expect
in a fairly large
Service Station.
And well looked after.
The spanish drivers are now drinking their
coffees,
and continuing their easy chat chit.
They're really enjoying their
conversation.
They're probably together in the
same lorry,
so there'll be no room for me.
But i'll just chat a bit with them in my
Spanish.
"Hola.
Tonto soy jo. Amigo del fuego y tomatos
y, la mas fuerte de todos
mis deseos,
es la obsession
que
soy autostoppo con siblo
unico:
estar al Puerto
de
Calais!"
Any way, i want to practice my
spanish.
Maybe i want to prove myself to the Station
manager?
Maybe, i want to lie to you, the
reader?
Maybe, i stammered out some other
approximate gibberol
which, more or less, served
as a spanish translation of
The Big Question?
The truth is as i had divined.
They are in the same lorry. There is no
room.
They are going to Great Britain.
BINGO!
I got a feeling that nearly everybody
who walks into this petrol station's
showroom
is going
to where i want to go,
Calais
Port,
and going with a rush that i want to
share.
Some other drivers come and
go.
Lightheartedly i press my
needs.
I let them enter and get
adjusted to the atmosphere.
I feel like a
millionaire.
All the signs flashing
"No further problems
now."
The next lift is Calais
Port.
I won't take less.
And there's four hours yet of
daylight..
If a guy doesn't decide to pop
a drink
and hang around
invitingly,
i'll open the door for him and
follow him out
and catch up to him by his
eighth step
and do my song and dance to him
alone.
But nothing goes.
But i don't care. I'm well
placed. I'm sure to get a lift, soon.
A young guy between 25 and 30 years
old
is at the petrol pump.
The car's plate is
foreign.
I go up to him and, speaking in
French,
do my preliminary song and dance.
He doesn't answer; as though he is
confused.
I ask, but now in English,
"Do you
speak English?"
"Yes...i
am studying in an English university.
I'm going to
London"
and he says this with a European accent i
can't identify.
"Hey... Could i go with you? I'm
hitch-hiking."
"Sure.."
And this part of the hitch-hike
i will not detail.
I become, for this young man, an older
acquaintance
who had once, also, studied economics in
London.
Yes. This hitchhike was unique;
i, the hitch-hiker, felt older than the
driver.
Usually, i am so
attentive to the driver and his interests,
that i lose my sense of me, and become
me,
as i was, at my beginnings,
when everybody was more
important than me.
I become the young kid watching
men working,
standing and watching
with great concentration
and asking them
questions
and trying to learn how things
are done.
There was psychic room in my
family for me, the youngest, to do
that..
At three in the afternoon,
i am walking London's streets.
One minute from the Underground station,
Mile End,
and thirty minutes
from
my friend John's digs at
Highbury-Islington,
to which i have the
keys,
and, from there,
an Underground
eight minute
paid
train-ride
and then a
paid
bus-ride
two hours distant from
Brighton.
I am not a purist.
I play the waves.
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