CHAPTER 2

THE PLAN PRE-VISITED

the hole in the fence

INDEED,

Times have changed

and the conditions of hitch-hiking

have dramatically changed along with them.

A possible alteration

--carrying a frightening potential menace--

was told to me,

at the outset of my voyage, during that port storm at Calais,

by an experienced hitch-hiker

in the ground floor lounge

of the

Port Authority's Building:

"In France, now,

there is a 10,000 franc fine for hitching on the motorway."

(This bit of information which i didnt completely trust

hit me pretty hard.

'Asking for lifts

at motorway Service Stations'

is my favorite hitching method for this French route.)

He suggested i do what he does.

He only hitches just BEFORE the pay-booth entrances to the Motorway.

Technically, he is not ON the motorway.

Maybe someday i will.

So far i have been fortunate

doing what i do.

When the necessity to change is confronting me in the real,

i shall change. So far i have been fortunate.

 

Twice, in this last month, in the South of France,

i had to slink out of sight:

from

a cruising police van

in my first fright-encounter with this menace.

The second, and only other similar fright,

came from

a team --two motorcycle police--

buzzing into the Service Station,

cruising slowly, slowly.

They decided, then,

to become pedestrian

and wander about, each in his separate trajectory,

to silently, dangerously amble around

through the interior spaces of the Station.

I was able, again, to tip-toe out of their sight,

take a long crap in the crapper

to emerge later. Thankfully, they had gone.

 

But that was in the South of France.

In The North, here,

between Paris and Calais,

i had never, ever, in all my years of hitching, encountered

police.

In this phase of my hitch-hiking voyage,

other menaces are

more probable.

In any case, i can do nothing about the police menace beforehand

except to be

passport-in-order,

clean as a whistle,

attractively dressed.

In the past, the worst that 's happened to me

was to be driven in their police car to a motorway exit.

Having checked out the fact that i was not an escaped murderer,

they didnt, beyond that, give a damn.

There was not even an accompanying verbal menace.

They expected me to start my hitch-hiking onto the motorway

as soon as they motored out of sight.

--For what else could i do, without a car in the middle of nowhere,

and one very good strip of road,

with loads of cars and trucks going to where i want to go,

--called The Motorway--

alive and kicking just in front of me.--

 

Once, i was transported off the motorway,

dumped,

and

told where to hitch to get back onto the motorway.

Their reasoning was:

"Inside a car, you are O.K. on the motorway.

You are technically no longer hitching."

They were only always doing their required job,

Upholding The Billion Laws the common man is subject to.

Upholding, blindly,

"No hitch-hiking allowed on the motorway."

 

WHERE AM I?

 

I am on my return voyage.

I had made it into Paris from the South via Lyon a week ago

and have been staying with my Parisian friends, Bob and Julie.

 

It is time now for the return

to my home base in England.

 

I now expect changes in my hitching conditions.

The chessboard has already shown me its alterability.

 

Using a pause in my Parisian life to prepare my future,

i decide to check out

my standard, secret, best solution

for getting out of Paris,

going North on the Motorway.

But why should i have a secret solution in France?

To know why,

we must look for

--cherchez...

... la femme! the woman!")

 

In France,

if you are a man, and therefore not a woman ,

with no one else around,

standing on the side of the road soliciting lifts

takes hours and hours

before some car stops for

you.

 

I had stood several times

at the side of the road with dozens of others,

using the known, standard locations,

standard formulai,

--learnt from travel guides--

to hitch-hike out of Paris.

Those were my innocent days.

In the summer time, three feet separate you

from the hitch-hiker on the right,

and three feet separate you from the hitch-hiker on the left.

And the drivers drive by,

and their flow lines

do not come within 50 feet

from where we,

--the standard, side-of-the-road hitch-hikers--

are gesturing, futilely gesturing.

 

And i stand there and stand.

And some cars separate off from the flow

and come ambling... low throttle... towards us...

...and cruise alongside,

somehow, nearly always, stopping

in front of

a

a woman.

I realized quickly

(quickly relative to the mass of hitch-hikers who seem content to stand and wait,

not quickly relative to the few ,

who, like myself,

enjoy the challenge of doing things differently,

doing things one's own way)

that my hitching energies

should only start

when these gals have all flown-the-coup

and i have somewhat fairer competition.

 

Other hitch-hiking males seem to be fair competition.

But that's all the praise i can give it.

 

If only one other male is hitching,

i strike up a deal with him:

that whoever gets a lift first

would ask the driver if he could take the other as well.

This lessens the competitiveness.

makes living more cooperative, therefore, more pleasant.

 

But, if there are three or four of us males around,

it takes five times as long to get a lift.

Somehow, we don't aid one another.

It is better to be alone.

Unhappily,

and this is a fault in myself

i experience

the presence of other hitch-hikers

as, truly, a downer.

 

This objectively-competitive aspect of hitch-hiking, i truly don't like.

Therefore, i had to find a unique solution that no-one knew.

Moreover, the standard solution had another great shortcoming:

It didn't satisfy

my larger sense of self.

 

MY STANDARD

UN-STANDARD-SOLUTION

My solution involves getting,

by public transport,

to the first, northbound motorway Service Station out of Paris,

and there, anywhere in the Station's forecourt,

talk individually to the drivers.

Talking, letting the other get a glimmer of my unique resonances,

gives me a better than even chance

at a 'YES' response.

 

Year's ago --indeed beyond my memory of how i did it--

i had figured out how to get to a particular Service Station

on the motorway going North out of Paris.

I had gone through a complicated, search process.

It was not information available through usual channels.

Motorway Service Stations

are generally

tucked away in the countryside,

way out, beyond the city limits,

tucked too distant for anyone without a car.

So, usually the idea of

searching for A Service Station inside a city,

is a futile one

and, thus,

not even thought of.

 

This particular Service Station is unusual,

being actually inside of Paris.

It stands back to back with

a massive, many-building,

housing project.

This housing project stood up the road from a bus stop

on the no. 149 bus-route

which wove its passengers through tin-fenced industrial

estates

and other humanly bleak, treeless, proudless

stretches

in the

periphery of very poor, very working-class Paris.

 

For years on end, looking through the 149 bus window,

absorbing this bleak landscape moving by,

i would visually be surprised by clumps of

Publicity and Political Announcements

pasted up by the local

French

Communist Party,

and sort of see them

as small, isolated, flower beds

strewn here and there in this grey-grainy,

human

desert.

No other signs or advertisements were around.

Nowhere in central Paris was the local Communist Party so

dominant.

Nowhere in central Paris was System Glitter so dim.

No doubt, this has changed too.

I think the Communist Party has been politically routed in France.

I know The Soviet Union, its loving parent, is no more.

It died 5 years ago, at 75 years of age.

 

To get to that 149 bus

to take me to that housing project,

i need to take the Metro to the north-east corner of Paris.

Looking at the Metro map i realize that

i can get from Bob and Julie's to my Metro destination

along two routes.

I choose to take the shortest one,

simply judged by the number of stops,

--though it had one more change-station than its alternative.

 

If for some reason this 'shortest' path

proved unexpectedly

difficult,

i could return by the other route, checking it out in reverse.

 

PATH COMPLEXITIES

At the Metro station, 'Fort d'Aubervilliers',

one stop before the terminal, i exit as i had always done.

But this time without the heavy weight of a ruck sack.

 

This 'shortest metro path'

the one that i just took,

i now know, has complexities

not shown by The Metro-Stations Map.

 

At Stalingrad station, where i make a change of trains,

there are four flights of stairs to go down

and unusually long, long corridors to walk through

and finally several flights of stairs to go up.

 

My cart with wheels

--my ten year old, trustworthy wheeled, rucksack-carrier--

can magically transform the heavy

task

of carrying my heavy rucksack along the

flat corridors

into nearly-unconscious, nearly-dainty,

handle-

pulling.

But, in descending and ascending stairs,

i would have to support and guide all its weight,

including the cart's sturdy frame and wheels.

What extra work that meant!

Therefore, changing at Stalingrad, with its too many stairs,

is to be rejected,

except in

emergencies.

 

When hitch-hiking,

all excess work is to be avoided if possible.

You never know how much energy might be demanded at some

future time.

As for my particular self, I'm no longer a young guy.

My 59 years require me to always be looking out

for energy-conserving solutions.

At my age,

living marginal styles of life,

requires me to be wiser, more scientific

than my youthful,

--more body-powerful--

self

needed to be.

 

 

BUS BLUES

At the Metro station, 'Fort d'Aubervilliers',

one stop before the terminal, i exit as i had always done.

But this time

without the

heavy weight of a ruck sack.

 

Light. I feel light and real good.

Adventure. This is what exhilarates me. Makes me young.

 

Bounding out of the station,

i go in the direction of the no. 149 bus stall;

just like i had done tens of times before.

There's a bus in the old 149 stall.

It seems ready to leave.

I'd better jump on first

and then, moving or not,

question the driver.

 

But getting closer to it, i realize its not the no.149,

nor is he preparing to leave that instant.

So, i jump on and,

lovingly,

tell my dilemma to the driver:

"Pardon me. I'm searching for the no149 bus

which goes to the stop 'Henri Barbusse'

which used to start exactly from here."

 

And the driver matter-of-factly tells me:

"That bus route has been discontinued.

I go to a stop called 'Henri Barbusse',

but it is in the

...(and here he mentions an unrecognizable name).

There's another bus that goes to a stop

called 'Henri Barbusse' in the Corneuve."

 

That name, 'Corneuve' rings a bell.

I think it was the name of the working class district

the no.149 wended through.

"Go to the office and ask someone there!", he counsels me.

 

Striking out through the quiet, nearly empty, desolate, open-air,

bus station,

I pass the broken shell of the old office on the way to the new

one.

I'm excited.

Its a lucky thing i decided to check this route out first

without the weight of the rucksack

and the implicit pressure that 'being on the road'

means for me.

For, once on the road, i don't like to turn back.

 

TURNING BACK

Only once in my hitch-hiking life,

committed to the road, did i ever return to home base.

The cause of my checkmate had been fundamentally

rhythmic.

The particular time of the week

in a post-holiday time of the year

had eliminated lorry traffic leaving England.

I was a couple of days too early.

i was at my special Service Station in England

--where lorry drivers crossing The Channel congregate--

20 miles north of Dover.

This was when Dover was a hitch-hiker's dead end for going to the continent. If one found oneself at Dover, the only thing left to do was to pay the exorbitant price of the ferry, and on the ferry search for a lift.

Though it had taken three hours of difficult, hitch-hiking

to get to this special Service Station,

I had to except the obvious.

I went all the way back to my friend John in London

to pass a couple of days

before again setting out.

 

With

a no turn-back principle pressing on me,

every local problem has to be solved on the spot.

Forward progress has to be made.

This pressure acts like a humming motor in my body.

With it running, sleep is impossible.

Forward progress has to be made.

 

Today,

being an exploratory trial,

i have the luxury of

lots of time to spend

-- if necessary, i could return tomorrow to continue exploring--

and no heavy burdens to bear

--not even am i carrying

my usual plastic bag

with a book and a notebook within it.

A pure sense of adventure

surges happily within the deepnesses of my fibers.

 

I am in search of information.

Am i hitch-hiking?

Has my real hitch-hiking begun

with this dry run?

Not asking for a lift,

i am asking for information.

And maybe i am also posing a larger question:

Are all life's projects, like this one, preparable for?

 

What a deserted part of the universe!

What a sense of empty devastation this bus station posesses!

Maybe this bus station is closing down?

 

A KNOWLEDGE GUY

I enter the office without knocking.

Two guys are in it.

One, the younger, is standing in front of an open, internal office.

The other, seated behind the only desk in the internal office,

immediately radiates to me

a sense of pride in his own

knowledge.

 

But the standing guy,

probably a bus driver,

with the excitement of someone escaping boredom,

dives into serving me:

into finding the number of a bus going

to the old no.149's stop, 'Henri Barbusse'.

He grabs a map

out of a pile of old, identical-looking

bus-route maps

discarded in the corner of the office,

studies it, and says,

"This map is no good" ,

and turns to the guy

to whom i would have instinctively, originally turned

--the knowledge-solid-looking guy behind the desk--

and poses the question

that the knowledge guy must have already heard

me pose

when i first came in.

Quick and quiet as inhaling ,

cool as a guy who knows he knows,

knowledge guy

tells me

with absolute surety

that the no. 249 bus now travels on the old 149 route.

That, the boarding stop i want,

can be gotten to

at the next Metro stop, 'Quatre Chemins',

two stops before the terminus.

There, at the corner, i must catch the 249 going towards Grugny.

 

 

So out into the open air i fly,

still lightheaded and still enjoying this adventure.

Indeed, enjoying it more,

as more and more it becomes apparent

that what i am doing is absolutely

necessary.

And were i to have skipped this preparatory enactment,

i would be in the same predicament i now find myself in,

but with the painful addition of my rucksack heavy-weighting me.

I would have been obliged to lug it down and up

flights

of more Metro stairs

than my calculations foresaw,

and,also, on top of the extra physical demand,

the tense, mental demand to keep my attention fixed on

guarding it.

At this recent revelation of where i now had to go,

were i to have had my heavy rucksack,

i would have

begun to shrug

my not-yet-aching shoulders,

shrugged them for a half-a-minute or a minute at most,

and then, accepting unbudgeable reality, got myself together

and shoulder on

having lossed a little enthusiasm for a minute or two.

After all, on the road, there is no turning back.

"Fare Forward, Voyager!" is its primary principle.

 

God only knows what further changes have been made

on my hitch-hiking

chessboard!

Into the changing waves i leap.

Into the unchanging Metro hole

to the side of Fort d'Aubervilliers'

bus station

---a bus station i i probably will never see

again---

and, now, once more down into the humming guts of the Metro

system,

to be whisked one stop.

 

EXITING QUATRE CHEMINS,

spews me out into a teeming street of people.

Immigrant population. North Africans for the

most part. Wow! What an atmospheric change from the bleak bus

station one stop away.

It's almost freaky. Like the discontinuities in an acid trip.

 

Through the breaks in the crowd

and inside the heavy, grey mist submerging us,

i see

a halal meat shop. Wow!

And then looking around me, i spot another immigrant foodshop

whose foreigness, also, resonates with my sense of adventure.

I tell myself that i shall stock-up on food for the voyage exactly in

this neighborhood. What an extra treat!

Besides, i know that it shall be as money-cheap

as i could expect here in

France.

 

Around the corner i find the bus stop

and, with the help of a black-African grandmother, its direction to Grugny is

confirmed.

I'm on my way again.

The kids around me

--for mostly they are kids going or coming from secondary school--

are first generation french kids

with parents from black Central Africa or arab North Africa.

They are handsome, strong,

excited and abubble with their youthful intrigues.

I'm an invisible, elderly person for them.

The perfect social location for observing.

 

I feel that,

and i feel the urgency of my quest:

to arrive at Henri Barbusse,

and i feel, also, my traditional need to look out the window.

So i get caught in-between

and can't now give you another line about these youth,

nor about the neighborhood we were to pass through.

 

The bus comes. Everybody piles on in an un-queued, noisy rush

and i, the last to climb on,

easily pose the Henri Barbusse bus-stop question

and receive the busdriver's certainty-making answer,

"It's a forty minute bus ride. I'll tell you when."

 

 

CLOSING IN

And off we go.

And after a forty minute or so bus ride,

i begin to recognize the neighborhood.

And there, up the road, is my stop.

Its name has changed to the longer name,

"Mermoz,

Henri Barbusse".

But it's the same stop.

I recognize the corner,

and the supermarket

in which i always bought food for the voyage.

 

Quickly, i walk to the housing project.

And all the while i am asking myself if there are any changes.

 

If there are, they ain't evident.

I recognize and don't recognize the buildings.

What remains similar is the general layout

and the atmosphere of the neighborhood.

Real tranquil. Real quiet.

 

Its been misty all day. Now it's just starting to lightly rain.

Because i'm not carrying anything

and because i am going back to Bob and Julie's

--where i could dry my clothes on the electric heaters--

the rain isn't a major annoyance for me.

Just another feature of this adventure.

 

Were this to be the real hitching day,

this rain would be more than an annoyance.

Getting wet means usually staying wet

which means asking drivers to take a sloppy, wet being

into their dry and clean,

private space.

Such a proposition is a no-goer in France.

Everybody in the street, wherever i had gone this last month,

wore spotless clothes.

Only the SDF's broke this code of dress.

And i'm sure they have a hell of a time hitch-hiking.

(As for what the SDF's are, i'll get to that later on in this writing.)

 

NEW european CATEGORY as a sign of the times

and Dressing Styles as people signals

No why wait?

Didn't i hear of NFA's in England? Sure.

Both letter-triplets began frequently to appear

in people's current jargon

about the same time.

In the last five years.

A sign of the times.

 

'No Fixed Abode' and 'Sans Domicile Fixe'

mean the same thing

with the same nuance: an incurable disease.

SDF's and NFA's are individuals who bear this social disease.

They have an aversion to being immobilised

via the possession

of

an immobilized 'home'.

 

Because NFA's or SDF's are roughing it,

--sleeping in abandoned buildings--

--parks--

their style of dress

best suitable

is not best suitable for a house dweller.

An SDF's dress accepts dirt.

It would be, for them, energy-consuming madness

to maintain

spotless dayly dress.

For fixed abode people, spotlessness is easy and pleasant.

For them 'Cleanliness is next to Godliness.'

They are 'instinctually' repulsed by dirt.

But dirt and ruggedness, of necessity almost, accompanies social adventure.

Thus, 'instinctually' is bred into 'Good People' an aversion to real adventure.

Thus, 'instinctually' is THE SYSTEM maintained within us.

 

The other side of the coin,

the side of THE SYSTEM'S RULERS,

is the side i haven't taken but have read about:

Ghandi, in the 1920's,

--as a young man, studying to be a barrister

in one of London's, hoity-toity, Inns of Court--

frugally spent his money and meticulously kept his accounts.

 

A very great slice of his week's expenses,

--many-fold greater than his food bill--

was his laundry bill!

The social rules required him to be

as immaculately clean as a Baron or a Duke.

Two and three clean and ironed shirts per day.

Several changes of suits per day, etc., etc.

Of course, these are the standards

of those who wouldn't ever conceive

of doing their own laundry.

Such 'immaculate cleanliness' revolts me.

I met it in meeting the British Barrister Class.

And i met it once in the immaculate house of a Baroness.

She had three effective slaves, called 'servants'

to insure the immaculateness of her outward show.

 

'Immaculateness' for me is associated with Tyranny.

 

So dress is effectively waving a flag:

telling the driver how the hitch-hiker lives,

telling the other who one is.

 

The guys, with the homelessness label,

radiate independence. They are playing their own game.

They don't care what the other's response is

to the way they dress.

I admire them.

When i encounter them, i put myself in question.

 

unlikely DRESS

In one part of my hitch so far,

--i have forgotten exactly where--

i encountered this guy who seemed to be attached

to two luggage valices

in the same way as i was attached to my rucksack.

 

This was on the forecourt of a Service Station.

No one but hitch-hikers would carry their luggage with them.

What astonished me about this hitch-hiker

was the unlikely dress he wore.

He had on a very clean, well pressed, suit,

with white shirt and tie. He was well shaved

and, in a nutshell, dressed for white-collar work.

 

I met him at two separate Service Stations.

He didn't want to talk.

He waved me away.

He was about forty years old.

He was more successful at hitch-hiking than i.

He got a lift before me twice.

But i didn't study his technique.

Of this i am sorry.

I am certain that i would have learned something.

But i was in a rush and i saw him, mildly, as a competitor.

 

Styles. Ohh the various styles that exist!

My style is to be clean and shaven and neat

and at-ease and well-spoken.

No suit. Leisure time clothes.

A perfectly reasonable, happy guy.

 

BACK TO THE PRESENT

So i am walking on the housing project's paths and sometimes on its muddy lawns,

wending my way through this vaste estate,

super aware of the specific dangers that might exist here:

the security guards of this housing project

and young bands of kids itching for excitement.

I see neither. Its a peaceful scene.

 

And then a backround roar of cars and trucks

suddenly penetrates my awareness.

The roar is coming from behind a twenty-foot-high mound of dirt,

left over from the days of the housing project's original construction,

and, now, by always-at-it Nature, irregularly grassed over.

I remember this mound!

Yeah. Yeah. I'm arriving!

 

Up and over the muddy mound my body, unbridled, surges.

Yes. There is the motorway!

And

Yes. There is the Service Station!

But it looks dead. The lights are out.

A discarded-looking car slouches, as though it were ill,

on one of the Station's asphalt paths.

 

Yet, there is some activity. A car pulls in.

I can see it

through the wire fence

and the tall bushes growing on the Service's side of the fence.

I see the driver going to the Service's store to pay for his petrol.

And now here he comes, driving his petrol-fed beast out into the

motorway roar.

But before he could fuse with the raging flow,

cruising slowly, outbound,on the Service's exit road,

he passes near me.

His car-number plate has '66' as its regional part.

That's not from here. Plates from this part of Paris have 92 or 93.

So, there is non-local traffic using this Services. But not much.

What a difference between now and what i knew to be

the usual flow through it years ago.

But why get upset? Everything changes.

 

Let me now see how i can solve this next, local problem:

getting into the station area.

 

WORKING ON A CHANGING CONSTANT

Getting into the Service's private space has always been the problem here.

Its management, evidently, does not invite pedestrians.

It says "No Passage!!!"

with a mute, 5 foot-high and spiked, wire fence.

 

Sometimes my found solution to their mute "No Passage"

was a big, nearly invisible flap,

--clipped out of the wire fence--

which moved aside as you took hold of one of its free edges.

This was the royal road.

 

But the next time i would come through,

i would find that royal road repaired

and find, twenty yards further on,

a new, small, squeezable-through hole clipped out.

 

The local kids, i suppose, are my benefactors.

I don't have a clue why they make these holes,

Maybe, they want to extend their game-play beyond the fence?

Maybe, they want to get on the motorway?

Maybe, they want to get into the Service Station

--which lies on the same side of the fence

as the motorway?

Some of their mates might have cars

and to rendez-vous with them

in the Services car park

requires such fence-surgery.

Anyway, for one reason or other,

they,

like me,

want to get to the other side of this fence.

 

I am humbly thankful

that the concrete world's logic

allows many alternative uses

for one and the 'same' thing.

The freedom achieved by the local children

--to not be blocked, in their play, by a fence---

extends my freedom as well.

 

And, with regret, i know that

as the children's world shrinks down, shrinks away

from the vacant lots and other, uncivilized stretches,

so my freedom shrinks as well

--from the vacant lots and other, uncivilized stretches.

I am losing my freedom to enter the undefined.

Fences are being put up nearly everywhere.

Every space is becoming function-specific

by the unrelenting application of success-minded energies.

Children have, no longer, space to freely play.

"Every space is Private Property"

according to the State's

Holy Law

and developing Private Property requires

Planning Permission given by State Administrators,

and Planning Permission requires

explicit naming of its usage.

And so the sane world of perfectly insane people

increasingly strangle their own childrens' freedom

and believe they are only preventing

black, murky 'chaos' from seeping in.

 

 

All adventurers travelling marginal routes

must depend on accidental gifts of the marginalized.

When i discover a new hole in the fence,

i become happy as any

kid.

 

This local problem of getting into the Service's area,

for the moment, amounts to nothing more

than getting to the other side of this wire fence.

This obstacle is moderately formidable;

it is five feet high

and topped by spikes

--the woven fence's endwires

sharpened into

upright points.

 

This obstacle was my original reason

for setting off today without baggage.

Maybe

the hole in the fence

i had used four years ago is no

longer there?

 

This was the only local obstacle whose solution

had varied many, many times.

And these solutions, these holes in the fence,

were created by

others.

I merely found these holes. I didn't create them.

And, i had also found

that the hole in the fence i had last used

was usually professionally corrected;

professional, social guardians of the fence were also at work .

 

My mission,

as i unconsciously first understood it,

in my earliest glimmers of a need lurking here,

was to find out if

a hole in the fence

is waiting for me,

and, if not, figure a way around this obstacle fence,

without the burden of the heavy rucksack.

 

So here i am --in a rain starting to beat down--

before the fence

that i have to pass through or

climb over.

Let me see what it has to offer.

 

I spot a first possibility!

At its corner, where the motorway fence joins the Service area fence,

the fence is bashed downwards.

A simple step-up on this crushed part

and one could easily jump down on the other side.

No doubt, this was a much used hole in the fence.

It looks well worn. Approaching, to closely examine this easy route over,

i recognize,

within the mangled mesh of crushed down, wire fencing,

windings of barbed wire.

Fucking hell! The guardians of the fence at work again.

 

But they didn't reweave the damaged fence

--remake the fence anew--

as they would have standardly done for as long as i remember.

As though they were short of money,

they only have cheaply enwrapped some barbed wire into the partially crushed fence,

making it perilous to risk climbing over. (Perhaps, their penury is

related to the dead-look of the Station?)

In any case, that's that

hole in the fence plugged.

 

Not totally.

Maybe i can find something to cover the whole mess,

protecting me as i climb over it?

 

Let me try to find the new hole in the fence.

Later, i'll search for something to cover this barbed-wire mess.

 

Continuing my study of the fence,

i discover,

30 feet away, the motorway fence has been worked on from below

by my benefactors,

who i am now supposing to be pretty young,

because this particular hole in the fence

seems inadequately small,

sufficient for ten year olds, but hardly more.

The bottom section flaps up a bit.

If i had to, i think i could crawl under it.

I would have to spread newspapers and plastic bags

to keep me clean of the heavy, clay mud.

I'd have to open my rucksack and push its contents under

piecemeal.

But that's all i would have to do.

This hole in the fence is potentially usable.

 

I go further along the motorway fence

to see what else it might offer me.

 

Fifteen feet further,

where the clay mud has black grease marbling through it,

and rusty, greasy motorbike detritus scattered here and there,

a cut-down, 10 foot sapling,

with its roots still well-anchored in the ground,

stands adjacent to the fence.

The fence's spiked top here has been pounded into horizontality.

My benefactors at work.

You can now stand on its flattened top

and jump the five feet to reach the ground.

And you can get to stand on its top

by first stepping

onto one of the remaining branch stubs

sticking conveniently out of this remnant tree.

Your easy second step is to the top of the fence.

Your third step is the jump out

beyond the six-inch horizontal

spikes.

 

But i'm 59 years' old.

Jumping those 5 feet,

even though i would land on soft , clay soil,

seems a little risky.

I haven't jumped from heights greater than 3 feet in years.

I'd have to do some preparatory exercises

before i took on this five-foot jump.

I truly don't have a clue as to how my body would react to such a

shock.

To jump without preparation,

would be a most unscientific move for me,

though, no doubt,

it is a ridiculously, easy demand on young adults.

 

But, voila, a second solution comes to my mind.

If i could cover

the horizontally bent spikes

with some heavy cloth,

i could roll on my stomach

over the fence's spiked-edge top.

 

So, both,

the meshed, bob-wire hole in the fence

and

the hole in the fence next to the tree,

need some material to clothe its sharp points,

its barbed-wire spikes.

 

And there's the crawl-under hole in the fence

which needs newspapers to spread over the clay mud.

 

Not a bad haul of holes in the fence!

And that's without mentioning

the five feet jump, hole in the fence,

that i might unscientifically go for,

if trapped here with no viable

alternatives.

 

Though the rain is still beating down,

i decide to reconnoitre the unknown-to-me,

backside of the Service Station,

where it abuts, further on, on this housing project.

 

Maybe, there --where i never, ever, had reason to go--

is an unobstructed way in?

Maybe the world is fundamentally ironic?

Maybe, through all these years of solution-finding, my puffed

pride

 

was

 

founded upon

a trivial

ignorance?

 

I back plod, returning toward the Station,

alongside this very real, physical restriction to my path liberty

(now taking the form of a wire fence)

...to where

the wire fence

no longer separates me from the motorway

but becomes, after making a right angle,

the proper guardian fence of the Service Station...

....through it, i see the Service Station building,

its petrol pumps and a few cars--

plod...

...to where

the wire fence attaches to a 15 foot high, impregnable

concrete wall.

I pass a heavy, steel door embedded in the wall.

It's locked and obviously an unbeatable obstacle.

So on i continue; the rain still mildly pelting down.

I am concentrated. A real problem.

I still haven't found a definite route into the Services.

The obstacle to my entrance is now this 20 foot high, concrete

wall,

forming here an awesome, continuous back-boundary

of

the Service Station's area.

Dynamite or serious climbing gear seems the only solution here.

 

In this dreary part of the housing project, the arse-end part,

car-parking seems to be its sole purpose.

 

But what's this?

A mud and grass and thorn-bush covered, 10 foot embankment,

--another leftover from the days of the project's construction--

flows up the side of the wall to nearly half its height.

I decide to climb on it. Who knows what i might see from on top?

Maybe a real easy solution might be staring me in the face?

 

With my mind filled by this hopeful fantasy,

i climb between its thorn bushes till the very top

and find absolutely nothing hopeful.

But lo and behold, as i am climbing down again,

carefully pushing the thorned branches to the side,

i spot a man's black suitjacket lying in the mud.

Its completely fucked with mud and water

and years of unidentifiable crud.

But, picking it up, i realize,

"this suitjacket is just the heavy material i need

to cover the fence's horizontal spikes

adjacent to the remnant sapling."

And it could also help cover the meshed,barbed wire

if i decide for that hole in the fence.

 

The rain has started to come down heavier than ever.

I make for a momentary shelter

in one of the ground-level,

open, basement-like areas

below one of the houses of the housing project.

A housing project employee,

busy with his own work, passes by

without even seeing me.

I guess this part of the world is as anonymous as

any street in the teeming center of

Paris,

or, this guy is cool enough to fool me

and is making detailed, mental notes of strangers

hanging around.

Anyway, he goes and the rain, five minutes later,

appears just as indifferent to me. That is to say the rain

departs.

Only puddles remain, and soaking wet, muddy clay.

 

Ten feet from the remnant sapling adjacent to the fence

i throw the suitjacket into the grimy mud.

"Nobody would be wanting to use that", i reason.

It'll be here for me in a couple of days.

I must definitely carry a little load of newspapers to cover the

jacket

so that i can belly over it without getting dirty.

A solution more or less exists now.

In the passion of the actual hitching day,

climbing that fence should be quick and relatively easy.

Good.

 

ONE MORE LOOK

But let me take one more look at that Service Station.

Let me see if i can see what is happening.

 

There's been great changes since last i was here.

This Station has gotten dangerously quiet.

It almost doesn't seem to be in business.

The blazing lights,

heralding from far a Service Station for motorway drivers,

creating an island of life in grey, rainy days, like this,

are missing. Only the shop shows a glimmer of light.

I walk over to the Service's side of the fence

and peer through it and through the bushes behind it

into the Service area.

It still looks dead. Nearly abandoned.

Though cars, at times, enter it...get petrol

and drive pass me into the roar of the motorway,

it still doesn't seem alive.

Is it?

 

Suddenly, i spot a figure moving through the still architecture

of this nearly abandoned world.

He is wearing a wornout, red-speckled uniform.

An attendant of the Services.

He walks to a green metal bin.

A hand-painted word is splashed in white on one of its sides.

I don't read it. Its an irrelevance for me.

The attendant throws something in the green bin.

He has now begun his return movement probably back to the store.

He's the nearest he's going to be, to me, now.

Why don't i scream out?

Why not?

"Hey!!! Msieu..."

and the moving impersonal figure turns

and walks directly towards me

and magically grows into a young, smiling guy.

He's about twenty four or twenty five years old.

The separation between us reduces to ten feet

of bushes, grey air, and the

wire fence.

"Hi! Is this place working?"...

He looks at me. He doesn't understand.

Why doesn't he understand?

O God, i'm talking in english!

 

Switching into french with a somewhat, accented english-american

accent,

"Pardon. j'ai parle anglais. Je voulais savoir..." ,

and he, in french, cuts into what i am saying, no doubt because i

am taking a long time saying it --as though i was some novice at

the language-- and, smiling, says in french,

" You want to hitch-hike?"

and i answer with an enthusiastic "Yes!".

He quickly then says,

"I'll come out here and open the door for you

when you give me a ring."

"What's your telephone number?"

"483 9476"

"What's your name?"

"Eric. I work from 6 AM to 2 PM.

Only Sundays and Mondays I don't work."

"Thanx Eric! Thanx!"

 

What a 'hole in the fence' i've discovered!

Wow. It's as good as i've ever had.

Wow.

Though my body wants to celebrate

my mind does not let me loose.

I must still,

according to its reasoning,

find a telephone

to use the morning,

of my return here.

 

MAGNETIC FRAUD

"Wow", "Wow", "Wow," my mind repeats to me.

Walking back and feeling like i'm galloping back.

 

Because I don't remember seeing a phone booth on my way here,

i don't follow the same return path through the housing project.

My body is surging

like a huge, young doberman straining at the leash.

I can see nothing

but passing, vague outlines of the

project's greybuildings.

I can concentrate on nothing

but the driving desire to find a phone booth.

 

And, as if by magic, a phone booth appears

exactly where i exit from the housing project

and step onto the pavement of the road

running along the project's front side.

 

This local problem,

'Find the Telephone Booth from which to call Eric in the morning',

is not completely solved.

You need a phone card

to phone now in France from a public booth.

It used to be the coins of the Republic that gave life to a public

telephone. Now, in these four years absence,

the keys to the telephonic Republic have been switched.

Magnetic cards, now,

miraculously dialogue with

the modern telephone's computer mind

and, perhaps, even more miraculously

lets itself be altered by the telephone machine.

We are obliged to carry these nearly live things

around in our pockets in order to use the public phone.

Just think,

if each public accessible utility required a different card?

And if a finite number of different cards

satisfied all of one's money-purchasable wants,

Why not unify the different cards into one card?

(No problem for today's technology.)

It would be a universal money card!

Each person on the planet carrying one or two or three, ...

 

Who shall be allowed more than one?

What's obvious is that one's money agilities

would multiply immensely with more than one magnetic address.

It would be as valuable as a legitimate, different second name would be

in today's bank-account game,

or, in today's State Passeport game.

Who sets the rules, wins the game.

In computer systems,

What may the common person query?

Can i query and receive the method

as to how to add or subtract memory in the Universal Store,

creating

second addresses?

Surely , some persons shall be able to do that

in order to account for births and deaths.

If i possessed this answer, then i would be able to give it to my friends.

So there must be a rule which determines who can have this answer.

But then i know:

Who sets the rules, wins the game.

 

Is there, of necessity, a European-wide mafia of money?

Is this mafia pushing us into Europe?,

pushing us into a single currency continent?

 

Money, originally precious stones,

then precious metals,

then specially printed, special paper

and now, in the ultra-modern world-to-be

is fairy-like transformed into

information

in

magnetic memory.

Who controls this magnetic memory?

( Will the ultimate, substantive difference

between me and a billionaire

become

a different, rearrangeable arrangement of 0's and 1's?,

and the rearrangement doable in an unguarded

microsecond?,

converting £365.000 000 000 to £365 000 000 000.

Give me the language used,

access to the operating system

and i, overnight,

can make billionaires of my friends

with no difficulty.

What imaginative thievery we are inviting for the twenty first century! )

Who sets the rules, wins the game.

WHO CONTROLS THE MEMORY

WINS THE GAME

 

What an obvious GLOBAL fraud!

OR , maybe it was always fraud and we never cottoned on?

 

Infinite Depth and Uncertainty

So i will need a workable phone-card the morning of my leap

into hitching North out of Paris.

And i know that the phone-card in my pocket

must be nearly out of units. I never read the

phone booth's dim-written, liquid-crystal read-out,

--its computerized message to my phone-card--

telling me how many calls i have left.

For some reason, there is a block in my soul

against having anything to do with this message.

 

I can decide to get a new card.

But it's quite a lot of loot to pay for security

I probably will never have further use for it on this voyage.

My use of the phone in France is rare.

 

Or, i can jump into the unknown.

 

"I'll risk it" i say to myself.

 

Because i do not delve further

to determine whether i have a working phone card or not,

i am puttting my global hitch-hiking problem in jeopardy.

In failing to pose an additional local problem,

"Is my phone-card working?"

i am accepting risk.

"But the risk is actually small.

I will always be able to rig up a telephone call to Eric.

I'm sure of that".

I refuse to think further on this uncertainty.

Away, Thought! Away to other problems!

 

You have to leave some problems somewhat unsolved,

or you'll go out of your head.

There's an infinite depth to each 'thing' in the Universe,

and therefore, an infinite depth to every practical problem.

If i try to dive into every hole and corner

of my global hitch- hiking problem,

into the local problems of the local problems, ad infinitum,

i would never reach the first day's real hitch-hike. I'd go mad.

Confronted by uncertainty,

my intuition vibrates to me a feeling of

security or

insecurity.

I can delve no further than to listen to my feelings.

 

I feel sure about solving 'the telephone call to Eric' problem.

 

TRAPPED IN MY OWN SUCCESS

So i start my walk back

to the 'Marmoz, Henri Barbusse', no.249 bus stop.

The street is vibrant with people.

 

I am still elated by my successes.

My being is autonomously moving, with an unforced, confidence,

from one problem to the

next.

i have the feeling i can penetrate any obstacle.

.

My mind naturally turns to the return voyage,

which as i know

is the exact reverse motion

of the real voyage i shall take.

 

"These kids and adults walking the streets now

must know the best way into the heart of Paris.

They live here. They are the geniuses of transport locally.

Why don't i ask one of them?"

 

and sure enough ... the first guy i stop gives me

without a milisecond of hesitation

the information i sought.

"Walk that way and that way to the tramstop

and then go a few tramstops to 'Corneuve'.

There's the Metro."

 

I was using the wisdom learned in the1960's.

Trust the people. They know.

 

I follow, without hesitations, the directions

that this guy (and, in confirmation,

another guy at the tram station) gives me

and refuse

the infinite number of diverting choices

beckoning me,

-----at each instant of my return---

to go in search of something else,

to get away from this hitch-hiking madness.

For my sensitive part of me

is not satisfied by the life of the conquerer.

It craves nourishment.

It reacts to an unknown neighborhood seen through the tram

window:

"Why don't i explore that for an hour?"

But the sensitive part of me

is only asking questions and not commanding.

i push my body into the tramway

not allowing my desire for freedom

to get the upper

hand.

Hitch-hiking from here to Calais is my urgent problem.

Everything else is veiled irresponsibility.

 

I step off the tramway

and the entrance-hole

to the Station, 'Corneuve, 8 Mai' is ten steps in front of me.

I look at the large and alive shopping district surrounding me.

I feel a bit cheated.

I am tempted to break this obsessional drive.

 

But something within refuses dialogue and pushes me forward.

It has taken control and refuses

to stop and look and love and experience

this unknown-to-me corner of the world.

It won't let me. I must rush onwards;

concentrate only upon my immediate priority

and refuse to bend before my 'fickle' desires.

I am not free as i would like to be.

I am being driven by something within.

I thought it was my higher mind.

But now i recognize that this willful base is of other material.

It brooks no questions. It is not of the higher, imaginative mind.

It commands me

'To determine, in practice,

the best, initial location

for hitch-hiking Paris to London'.

My mind and my body are subservient to this willful me.

It is this willful me that triggers my panics

when things go a little wrong.

It doesn't like to think. It likes to do.

It definitely has to do with a profound and serious sense of security.

And, for the moment, my security is entirely housed in hitch-hiking.

 

 

PLACES AND THINGS TO BE FORGOTTEN

The Metro terminates at 'Corneuve 8 Mai'.

'Fort d'Aubervilliers' and 'Quatre Chemins'

are its next two Stations.

The Metro station i have to aim for,

from now on, in hitch-hiking Paris to London,

is 'Corneuve 8 Mai'.

 

Goodbye to Fort d'Aubervilliers and its bus station!

Goodbye to the 149 and the 249 buses!

 

Its tramway action for me. And am i not better off?

The tramcar is smooth and speedy. The ride just 5 minutes long!

HOW MODERN TECHNOLOGY BRUSHES THE OLD AWAY!

 

Palais Royale or Stalingrad?

Still working backwards...

I now have the problem of the best route to take.

 

metro map
 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't like the stairs in the Stalingrad change station.

I could take another route

which would be ten stops longer

but with 'Palais Royale' as its only change station.

I should check this route out

but i want to get back to Bob and Julie's.

I'm feeling a bit wacked..Uncreative.

Spent.

Let me leave myself in uncertainty about this Palais Royale change.

The likelihood of it being less demanding than the Stalingrad exchange

is nearly a certainty.

I had lived in Paris for a good 5 years

and had loved travelling the Metro.

Transfer stations with ultra long

corridors,

complicated with

many stairs

are 'instinctively' known

by me.

My feelings tell me Palais Royale is a good bet.

But i won't check it out.

I again decide on uncertainty.

What i am risking is a mildly, more--physically-demanding route.

Tough shit. I want to get back and take a shower.

I want to get out of these humid clothes and soaken trainers.

I want to make sure i don't get a cold from this reconnoitring expedition.

But can i stop thinking?

 

 

ERATIC BOUNCES OF THE OBLONG

Bob and Julie's Metro stop is the terminus, "La Defense".

But the stop is on a hill overlooking Puteau,

where Bob and Julie live.

I would have to pull my cart weighted by the weighty rucksack

up that hill. That's no joke. It would make a mighty dent in my

energetic body.

There must be an alternate route.

 

And again as if by magic,

my thinking mind automatically coughs out,

"Why not take the bus to "Pont de Neuilly"

on the same line as La Defense,

two stops nearer the center of Paris?"

My mind works very fast on this local problem.

It answers, "Of course, Yes,"

 

This is an easy problem for me.

Since Bob and Julie moved to Puteaux some 12 years ago,

from their house,

i had always taken the no.144 bus

to the then Metro terminus, "Pont de Neuilly".

But for this stay in Paris,

i early learned that the Metro had been extended

two stops beyond 'Neuilly' to 'La Defense'

and that the walk route

to and from La Defense to Bob and Julie's

was quicker than to Neuilly,

and that the people-bubbling novelty

of this newest, Trans-national Business district of Paris

'LA DEFENSE'

had become more seductive

than quiet strolls through Neuilly,

through the people-less streets of

a district with the richest of mansions,

and with a strip of the Seine,

conquered by the richest of houseboats.

Lots of wealth in housing. I liked strolling through it.

But for this stay with Bob and Julie,

i have entirely abandoned it.

What had been

'the maximum solution'

for my body translation

between

Bob and Julie's and the Metro System

--going through Neuilly--

became second-best and forgotten.

 

But these calculations leading to the best solution

get overturned by the simple addition of a new fact:

i am going to be carrying heavy weight.

Heavy weight makes

walking up the hill to La Defense out of the question

and

taking the 144 bus to Pont de Neuilly very, very attractive.

I have more than enough bus and Metro tickets.

This local problem is solved.

 

What had become a second best solution

and, therefore, become in practice, totally discarded,

now becomes

the new, best solution for my trip to the Metro.

 

The world erratically evolves..

as the bounce of an american football or a European rugby

football. Sometimes as expected; sometimes erratic.

If a simple football has this eratic principle built in,

is it not daft to expect less of the universal shebang?

Look how i have had to change Metro stops

going and coming

for my Calais hitchike out from Paris!

Look how a simple addition of weight, has bounced me about!

We are all eratic. We have to be. Life vibrates through us.

 

 

DESTROYING THE COLD IN ME

 

My hitch-hike's beginnings seem assured.

I'll ask Julie for old newspapers to drape over the mud-globbed jacket

so that i can role over the fence adjacent to the sappling

if Eric for some reason is not working.

 

No one is at home at Bob and Julie's.

I take a heavy dose of vitamin C and a good multivitamin tablet.

Vitamin C, taken in very ample dosages,

really does insulate me from colds and flu.

As soon as i feel i have demanded too much of my weary body,

or have been in contact with people with colds,

i drop two grams of Vitamin C in powder form

and follow it with another two grams an hour later.

Moreover, every morning, I wash down with orange juice

two grams of the stuff and take a vitamin tablet as a chaser.

On the road, i supplement my morning multivitamin

with another one at bedtime.

 

All the time i am in contact with someone with a cold,

i suck on a Fishermen's Friend, lozenges which i always pocket,

and, immediately on leaving the person

apply a wet Fishermen's Friend to the mucous membranes of my nose.

Thusly, i've killed nearly all colds attacking me over the last decade.

 

Though its winter, my body, till now, has been very strong on the road.

I hope it remains strong for another couple of days.

Living on the road,

asking people for lifts in their mobile personal space,

requires me to be in tip-top, attractive form.

 

BEING A FRIEND IS HITCH-HIKING.

HITCH-HIKING IS FRIENDSHIP

Bob and Julie are out.

I take a hot, hot bath.

This serves two vital purposes.

Firstly, on the road i will not be able to adequately wash my body.

So the best strategy is to start out really clean.

That's a rule i have always kept.

Secondly, the hot, hot bath is to relax my body.

It's got to be strong and fit for a long, unknown demand on it.

Really relax my body.

 

I lounge for several hours,

finishing the readings i promissed Julie i'd do

about the Bosnian and Chechenian wars

which have burst out so close to the European heartland.

On these issues, Julie has become a passionate part

of the protest movement here in Paris.

When i arrived she gave me a series of standup lectures

on the politics behind these events

and followed up with

the loan of two "necessary" backround books to read.

She is my host.

I naturally give support to the life-style of those i am living with.

In fact,

my life-style inside Paris and Toulouse

--the two french cities i live in--

living, from time to time,

in the houses of my friends,

over a period of thirty years,

and returning always to my home base, in England,

---a home base sufficiently distant,

and my French visits sufficiently rare

to make me,

between visits,

a non-actor in my friends' lives--

resembles

my hitch-hiking life-style.

Though, the two are not identical.

The personal spaces

offered me by my friends are not moving spaces.

--they are immobile homes--

Time together is not measured

in hours but in days or weeks.

Though they are my long term friends,

friendships with more than twenty years of past behind them,

friendships which were begotten in deep relationship

--when our families were living communally together--

i still am accutely aware that i am the guest

and they are the marvelous, offering hosts.

Not unsimilar to when i am hitching on the road

and i am enthusiastically available

for any aid i can give the driver.

 

Because Bob and Julie are so able a pair

in the lifestyle they have chosen,

i am, on this visit, reduced to a seemingly small contribution:

getting interested in what Julie is interested in.

However, this is not to be thought of as of no great value.

Reflection and ongoing discussion

for a week or two

about one's political passion,

with a foreign, political animal

of four decades of political experience,

must add enthusiasm and horizon and shades of meanings

perhaps, not had before.

 

I do value myself here.

Besides, Bob is a little sceptical about Julie's present politcal enthusiasm.

"It's too distant from our lives for us to be able to do much about it."

So i can take up the political slack

and feel i'm fitting in to their energetic flow.

 

 

CHAPTER 3

V O Y A G I N G

 

DREAMING

Julie comes home. I find out from her that it's the 11th of January.

Tomorrow is wednesday, the twelfth.

It would be a good day for hitching North.

Many British lorry drivers would be returning

from weekly European trips

aiming to spend their weekends at home.

Besides, i want to be into my life

at home base

by the 15th.

So tomorrow will be the day!!

 

Julie is a little upset that i am going to leave tomorrow.

"Why don't you stay a few more days?"

But she accepts my reasoning and i go into my room to pack.

'My room is no longer mine.

My room has magically disappeared.

I am evaporating.

 

I collect my toys, having scattered them about the room,

and return them to the ruck-sack.

I pack everything except the clothes i shall be wearing.

 

In departure time,

i cannot help but think of

Arrivals and Departures.

My life is built upon them.

And at every departure time,

the real substance of my life is highlighted.

Bob and Julie, Michele,... become beings in a dream,

as i become for them,... a being in a dream.

Special Dreams --to which we can return--

but dreams, non-the-less.

Dreams we can re-enter,

at another phase in the dream..

 

What is life, but a dream of evolving dreams?

 

And with every departure,

the time for movement arrives.

The hitch-hiking mode arrives.

The QUICK-time

of

Arrivalsanddeparturesentrancesandexits

of

single , isolated,

dream - bubbles

arrive.

 

 

I want to eat a good breakfast at about 6 am

and be out at the 144 bus stop by 7 am.

All my effort now is geared to such a demand.

How shall i wake in time?,

--i borrrow an alarm clock from Julie--.

What shall i exactly eat in the morning?

--layed out and ready--.

Where shall i leave the key to the apartment?

--on Julie's desk, having already asked her.

My mind doesn't stop going through the innumerable details

involved in exiting from this friendship cocoon

in which i was so comfortably berced for the last

eight days.

Julie talks warmly about the next time i shall visit them.

 

 

A WEAKNESS IN MY ARMOR

On the morrow, everything works like clockwork.

I am at the bus stop by 7 am.

I'm feeling great were it not for one important, unexpected

failure;

one that snuck its way in last night.

 

It was the local problem of getting a good night's sleep.

I wasn't able to sleep.

I lay on the bed the entire night;

my mind refusing to turn off.

 

The night before i left England,

i couldn't coax my mind to sleep.

 

Also, the night before i left Michele's house in Toulouse, last week,

it refused to sleep.

And, it refused the night

before my morning takeoff from Lyon.

 

A new pattern seems to be emerging.

I don't know why?

Perhaps i really have to tire myself

just before i go to bed

the day before i leave to hitch-hike?,

instead of taking it as a day of rest?

In my nearly forty years of hitch-hiking,

i never before confronted this problem.

And a big problem it is.

I am beginning this hitching, in a sleepy state.

What a drag!

I don't feel it now so much.

But in six hours time

i will be bearing it-as-a-burden.

However,

I know i am now accustomed to this extra burden.

I know it doesn't kill me.

It weighs heaviest

when things

are not

going well.

It's a challenge that, later, invigorates the spirit.

It proves the fundamental resiliency that one posesses.

It helps deny the weakness excuse for not living full-throttle.

 

 

THE MAGIC MARSH

I stand at the bus stop in the darkness waiting

for the marvelous

--the public vehicle that will carry me on my way.

 

Nobody else waiting at the bus stop.

Are the buses working?

I'm getting worried.

Slow down i tell myself.

 

Sure enough, after five minutes of early morning quietness,

a thirty-five year old guy shows up.

He's wearing a suit below his smart-cut, light overcoat.

He's got a tie on. He's well shaved and his shoes are shining.

He's carrying a polished, black leather hand bag

for his personal and his business needs.

There is no criciticism to be made about his dress.

No doubt he is going to work.

 

The contrast between him and me,

as viewed inside my mind,

gives me a great sense of liberty.

I feel younger than he is, and older than he is.

By just that amount that

he appears bound to his work,

i feel myself to be free.

Free almost as the birds are free.

 

And just as vulnerable as the birds i might appear.

For my route, inside the whole shebang,

is taking an unpredictable route, the hitch-hiker's route.

While he, for his part in the whole shebang,

when he goes to work, like today,

or tomorrow ,when he goes on vacation,

will take the standard, comfortable, forseeable route

of the money-

paying voyager.

The non-trial route.

As though arriving at Y, coming from X,

is always more

important than

what the unexpected can

contribute on the way.

 

In this latter part of my life

i have grown not less

but even more antagonistic

to such normality.

I have developed, with the piling up years,

a positive passion for

the unexpected

--the magic marsh in which space-time has no order--

What grossly happens not forseeable

and, because of that, loved.

 

TESTING MYSELF

Before i started out on this present hitch-hiking voyage,

i was uncertain

about my physical capacity to endure

the demands normally made upon the hitch-hiker.

After four years' break,

i understood this voyage

as a test of my 'youthfulness'.

 

Before i began it,

i had already confirmed that my body was

in better shape than it had been

since i injured my shoulder two years before.

I had restarted my late-night, long-distant runs

to and along the

Brighton shore.

I hadn't been able to run like that since the accident.

So i felt better and just ripe for a real test:

a month hitch-hiking through France

visiting dear, dear

friends.

 

Two more people show up.

They add nothing to my certitude

of the bus showing up.

The guy with the suit had totally dispelled my fears.

 

Then, as a gift from the Cosmos,

the 144 bus to the Metro station, Pont de Neuilly

comes smiling up the road,

and stops to perform its miracle.

 

BRUSHED BY A SEXUAL MAGNET,

AND REBRUSHED

..I enter a metro car.

Not very many riders. It's early.

There's space between people.

I take a seat. Feeling good. I know where i am going.

The stations are speeding past.

It would be crazy to use the double-change, Stalingrad route.

Just lie back and feel good. The stations will whiz by.

 

I grow calm again.

Thinking ahead,

i imagine the worst that could happen

is that Eric is not there

and i would be forced to climb the fence.

 

The station advertisements speed by.

The most frequent one is

a grandiose, three-times life-size, photo

taken from the side of the bed at bed

height

of a very good looking

woman

lying on her back

on an unmade mattress

with her nude legs spread wide.

 

I'm not interested in the advertisement's words.

I am searching out her smile

and also how far into

one dimly-lighted section of the photo i

can see.

 

The stations go whizzing past.

No doubt millions of male voyagers, going to and from work,

are unconsciously sucked also

into this same unconscious-conscious, innocent-non-innocent

striving.

I am leaving this city. I am putting into the closet my self in Paris.

 

COLD-HEARTED

As i arrive at street level,

having emerged from The Metro at "La Corneuve 8 Mai",

there is a crowd hustling to get on both tramcars.

I have no time to stop and stare.

I have no time.

I race into one of the crowds

and ask the person, accidentally in front of me,

"Is this the tramcar going to "Hotel de Ville, Corneuve" ?

And luck is with me. It is this tramcar.

 

I lift my rucksack into it and away we go.

"Danton" is the next stop. I recognize it. I am going the right way.

"Systems all go" i say to myself as final blast off from Paris nears.

At the tramstop Hotel de Ville, Corneuve, i get off.

i look around

and

pick out the big INTERMARCHE sign.

It signals the road i have to walk down,

because it's the road of the 249

and upon it, a hundred yards away,

on the other side

of the

street,

is

the bus stop

Marmoz, Henri Barbusse.

 

Yeah. All is going well.

This is the exact route i took by foot yesterday.

Details on it, i had spotted yesterday,

come at me

in reverse order. I am on my way.

 

My body is surging forward of itself...

pulling its obligatory load of wheeled rucksack.

Pulling it with a sense of absolute necessity.

My mind is not thinking of it.

It is looking round.

 

It's still sort of dark. Kids are going to school.

Young adolescents and younger still.

The atmosphere is warm and non-menacing.

I have not to worry about being attacked.

Yesterday, as today, there is no menace at all.

Good friendship feelings are in the air

as the school-kids walk in pairs and triplets

.......... not noticing me.

The paranoia i had picked up in the newspapers

--the reported violence in these working class neighborhoods--

is dispelled in seconds. I don't return to that thought again.

 

My present, local problem is to find the telephone booth.

It's in front of the housing project but further

up the street

than i had ever gone.

(The project's extensive grounds

surround

about ten

eight-story buildings.

This is my imaginings.

I never tried to understand this housing project.

In the many times i had encountered it, i was in a hurry to hitch;

Too much of a hurry, and too burdened by my rucksack

to stop and look at 'a housing project'.

What alone interested me was

how to get through it to the ServiceStation.

I knew nothing of the project's life.

I didn't care.

I, to it, am a coldhearted lover. )

 

P A N I C

There's the telephone booth.

Inside of it, i realize that i am about to confront

one of the inbuilt uncertainties lying in wait for me

and now come to the top of the deck.

Does my telephone card have an unused unit

with which to telephone Eric?

Out i get the phone card, stick it into the telephone and ...

 

BINGO. I'm being given the dial tone. I am able to make this call.

"Hello. Can I speak to Eric?"

Pause and then a voice says, ..''Yes. This is Eric."

"Hi!" i answer.

"This is that Englishman you spoke to yesterday."

"The hitch-hiker?"

"Yes. I'm one minute away."

"Ohh. Yeah. I'll go open the door."

"Great!"

And i hang up and spring into the housing project pulling my

cart.

 

And now it seems i'm truly approaching blast-off.

 

Into the housing project grounds i plunge.

I recognize nothing.

I realize i haven't ever approached from

this entrypoint.

So i try to situate myself with respect to the larger

geography.

I make an estimate and determine

what direction i should travel.

And

plunge in that direction,

over the ground's paths and muddy green.

Going to where i want to go, whether or not a cemented path

exists.

 

I'm in the panic of the takeoff.

I'm getting nearer and nearer to the other side of the project .

Its

back side. The motorway side..

 

When i get to what i think should be the back,

i recognize nothing. The services are nowhere in sight.

I can't even hear the roar of the motorway traffic.

I must have gone too much to the left. I'll walk more

to the right.

 

More panic walking.

More confusion. I recognize nothing.

A corrogated iron fence of a large, internal parking lot confronts

me.

I never saw it before in my life.

I'll have to go around it.

Where the fuck am i?

The door to the motorway is open and waiting for me

and i'm lost.

What the fuck is going on?

My cart gets caught in the mud of the green.

I'm not waiting for it to roll.

I won't stop and clean its wheels.

I am just manhandling it.,

dragging it by force behind me.

I'm in a panic.

What the fuck is going on?

Why can't i find the stupid Services?

My trainer shoes, in part made of canvas, are decked with mud.

I'm now sliding through the mud sludge.

Where the fuck am i?

Why am i panicking?

I know i don't have a good sense of direction,

but this takes the

cake!

 

 

INSIDE THE PROMISED LAND

Finally, finally,

after climbing a mound of mushy clay

with sparce grass haphazardly string-greening the brown scene,

i, at its soggy top,

spy the Services and its entrance,

and hear, for the first time,

the roar

of the flood

that's going to bear me to England.

Takeoff is about to happen.

A driver is going to say with a smile, "Yes. Hop in."

Hundreds of happy kilometers are going to be spent

discussing some part of the world most interesting to him.

I am soon going to be entertained and entertaining

as the kilometers between me and the Calais port diminish to zero.

I push at the heavy iron door.

It's moving! It's open!

I shut the door behind me.

I am in the grounds of the Services.

 

It looks as dead as yesterday.

I trudge through theStation's side-door. Downstairs are the toilets.

I better clean the mud off of the cart

and the ugly caked-mud from my trainers

before i start asking people for a lift.

 

"But first things first" i say to myself

and, leaving the cart with my rucksack before the toilet stairwell,

i quickly walk to the front of the deserted shop

where the guy behind the till is busy with something. It's Eric.

"Thanx a lot!"

"Oh. Its nothing."

He doesn't seem as though he wants to talk with me.

He has pressing work to do. So i leave him

and lower my cart down the two flights of stairs

into the hardly used toilets.

There,

alone,

i take a good crap,

a good piss,

a good wash of my trainers

and

a good wash of myself.

In the mirror i judge myself again to be in agreeable, visual shape.

Up the stairs to begin the takeoff.

"Wow! Wow! I'm on my way!"

 

 

My preliminary song

leading to

THE BIG

QUEST

ION:

 

"I am hitch-hiking",

i say simultaneously pointing to my rucksack.

"I am going to Calais. Are you going in that direction?"

 

I know that this Service Station

serves only one side of the motorway.

All traffic is going in my direction.

Therefore,

Why do i pose

the question

"Will you take me as far as you can?"?

 

The essential questions are,

"Will you take me?" and "How far?"

But how pose these questions?

 

One month ago, I began this hitch-hiking voyage with a style

that abruptly posed this important question of mine:

"I'm going to Toulouse. Could you give me a lift?"

That, i learnt, is less than the best and changed my approach.

 

THE FIRST FEW SECONDS

Usually, a driver first sees a hitch-hiker

as a tiny pinpoint up-ahead on the side of the road

and then as a growing pinpoint,

and then as a guy, bodily, imploring passing drivers,

and only then, a little while longer,

another ingredient is added:

a sign is being waved directly at the driver

and is now big enough to read.

The driver reads,........ "X"

and knows that the guy waving the sign

is definitely a 'hitch-

hiker'

and that the sign is saying,

" (We are going in the same direction.)

I am going to X.

(How far are you going?)

Will you give me a lift?"

 

But, here,

on the grounds of a Service Station,

i'm not carrying a sign,

nor am i on the side of a one-way road.

 

My voice and general outward appearance

must deliver the necessary information

and

The Big

Question.

 

I usually approach male drivers

after i have determined they are alone in their car.

 

People together usually don't want company.

 

A woman alone won't take me under any circumstances.

Twice or thrice in my life

--and that was when i was a young man---

had a woman alone, taken me.

Though i still, from time to time, play with possibilities,

and pose my question to a woman alone,

her response is always, "No."

A very solid NO.

 

Distrust,

from fear of violence,

has grown to become

a hiding monster

rearing its head and doing its

damage

in the first few, all-important, seconds of

contact.

It is the hitch-hiker's first, major, unconscious ...obstacle.

 

A man, alone,

looking at me and seeing

a guy,

a couple of inches below normal size,

who seems

quietly talkative and happy,

learns immediately

that he can trust me and even find me entertaining.

At least that is my very conscious goal.

 

And yet,

my approach is nearly always touched with some violence.

For

i must seize

--the opportunity--

his

presence.

Because of this unexpected incursion

--i am obliged to make--

into the life of another,

creating trust is foremost.

 

While a driver is coming out through the door of the Stationstore,

returning to his car

and the long road ahead,

I intercept him

to pose to him The Big Question for me.

No matter where he is in his trajectory

--anywhere in his walk to the car--

I would intercept him.

 

Though he was already in gear --seconds before his takeoff--

I'd come trotting up to his side window

and say something to him

through

the window glass.

He'd turn to me, somewhat surprised, and role down the window.

He has no idea what i want.

I am not on the side of the road.

We are in a Service Station.

 

Perhaps,

he didn't notice me on the fore-court of the Station,

going over to cars and people

and having quick, easy chats?

For him, I could be either

another car driver,

or a car inhabitant,

or a Service Station worker.

These are the constants of the Service Station's life.

Being a hitch-hiker,

i fall into the category of 'unpredictable

appearances'.

 

Who am I???

Before he roles down the protective car window

he looks at me.

I don't look dangerous or angry.

I am trying to look a little pressed.

Yes.

I'm in a hurry to takeoff.

So my minor look of urgency

combines with his expectancy of who i might be,

and he usually judges the scene

sufficiently non-threatening and possibly

important

to roll down his car window.

 

And now you know why i begin by saying

"I am hitch-hiking" ,

and, simultaneously, point to my rucksack.

 

I am alleviating any sense of danger on his part.

I am showing him that i am an honest person

--not trying to trick him

into giving answers

to questions

which he might think are coming from

the mouth of a bona fide

Station employee

and, then, deviously, lay on him

The Big hitch-hikers'

Question--.

No.

I am consciously radiating with my body and my voice:

I am a hitch-hiker

and an honest man

and someone who tries to be happy and constructive.

And with this, all-important, component

weaved within,

i pose The Big Question:

"I am going to X. Are you going in that direction?"

 

AN UNTHREATENING LAND

It's curious that, in originally writing this down, i didn't think of

the extra, hidden power i have

in this very particular, chessboard game.

A very Big power it is.

I speak french well and we are in France.

Good conversation is possible.

Also, i have an obvious and pleasant english-american accent.

The french drivers who hear me understand me to be

a foreign, easy-going man of a certain age

who speaks french.

i am temptingly intriguing starting from the very first seconds.

 

Some drivers want to practice their English.

Some drivers want to hear about my wandering life

which they first suppose i live all the time

and not as i do from time to time, once a year or twice.

On this voyage, till now, i didn't speak about myself.

(There really were no requests.)

In fact, I mostly find myself very comfortably listening

and responding to the concerns of the driver.

I am searching for some way to be of aid to him,

someway to pay the implicit debt i have to him.

 

We both feel we only have

this hour,

or these two hours, to enjoy

together.

So we play at conversation with each other. And exchange many

facts.

Many intimate facts about ourselves to the other,

without naming names, without giving addresses.

We are in an unthreatening land

where there are no direct causalities from it to our dayly lives.

A land

which can only re-emerge in our separate futures

through our own, independent and separate

uses

of it;

the future uses

of a

conversation

in a car

between oneself

and

a forgotten driver or a forgotten hitch-hiker.

 

By the time i finish with my little, preliminary song and dance:

"I am hitch-hiking" , i say

simultaneously pointing to my rucksack.

"I am going to Calais. Are you going in that direction?",

i believe the decision to take me, or not, has already been made.

 

Further entreaties are futile. Worse.

They leave a bad taste in the mouth of the driver,

who, sometime in the future,

will encounter other hitch-hikers.

Thus, an inescapable karmic relationship

ties me to other hitch-

hikers.

I give gifts, helpful and unhelpful, to other hitch-hikers

through drivers.

And they to me.

 

VIOLENCE AND HARMLESSNESS

All the motorcars and trucks and vans and motorcycles,

passing through this Station,

are 'forced' by motorway rules

to go in the same direction till, at least,

the next exit.

So my preliminary song's question,

"Are you going in that direction?",

has only YES for an answer.

 

I have subtly biased

the response

to the follow-up,

really Big Question.

The hitch-hiker's Big Question,

"Will you take me?"

 

As i use this form of question making,

breaking up The Big Question, into two questions,

the first of which, the preliminary,

has always the answer "Yes",

with all consciousness of its manipulative power,

HOW SAYING YES. BREEDS THE DESIRE TO SAY YES AGAIN

am i not creating a sort of violence engine,

which converts a legitimate desire

to say "No" to me,

into an ambivalent bitter taste in the driver's mouth

when his "No" is to

be recited?

Mia Culpa.

 

 

Having received the pleasure of having already said "Yes" to me,

a certain sense of loss might come upon him

were he to follow

with a "No".

Every offer of friendship is a covert offer of love.

How many "Yes" answers

(implicit or explicit)

does it require for making a friend?

The first "Yes" is a step in that direction.

A mighty step in my

case.

For i have come upon the driver totally unexpectedly:

from out of the night-time blazing lights

of a

Service Station,

or from out of the day's rainy-grey mists,

or, like a dazzling flower,

from out of

a

sunny

morning.

 

"What would it have been like",

the driver might ask himself,

"had i given this interesting guy

another "Yes"?

 

For those drivers with good reasons to not take me,

the hurt caused

is the sensed loss of a possibly lovely time.

This is my violence to them.

A teeny-weeny fantasy violence.

 

For those others

--and luckily they are a amall minority--

who say "No" with only the unvoiced excuse:

"Why the fuck is he asking me to help him?",

(or any variety of the ten thousand societal condemnations

of the

social underdogs,

promoted, legitimated

and hurriedly imbibed

to protect

the psychic well-being

of the puffed-up),

their negative might boumerang in their souls.

My offer of friendship, albeit tinged with self-interest,

is rejected

for no other reason than an inhuman prejudice.

A subtlly induced,

self-hurt

is, thereby, caused

producing

a further hardening of their heart.

 

BUT,

when i ask

The hitch-hiker's Big Question,

i am not interested in hurting the person

who gives me a "No"

for whatever reason.

For if he is pleased by our contact, leaving it up-spirited,

he will, maybe at the next opportunity, give some other hitch-hiker a lift.

And even if he didn't, he has his reasons.

We are entitled to our own reasons.

We are caught in our own reasons.

 

Being aware of the potentially violent effect,

of my question technique, i take precautions to cure the harm

before it passes from short to long-term memory.

To the many who say "No",

i have evolved a response,

a magic tap of lighthearted, up-comment,

"Well, a thousand thanks anyhow!"

and really mean it.

Or some joke, if it is appropriate.

Or a question that he can give me an answer to

and thereby restore his sense of 'doing good'.

I am not usually in such a dead location

in which i have to rely upon one driver

to get me out.

So its easy come, easy go.

Someone, from this roulette of life, shall pop the exciting "Yes!".

Somehow, for some driver soon, the alchemicals will read green

and, then, with a kid's excitement,

off i'll scamper

to get my ruck-sack

for take-off.

 

PICKLES

But difficult situations, pickles, do sometimes occur.

 

I was with Christine -- the woman i made a child with--

before we had consciously thought of making children,

in a time of our wooing,

when we were carving out the foundations of our being

as a couple.

We were going to be heroic. That, for sure.

 

In the early hours of the morning, in a rough and cold night,

with negative body implications

were we to remain outdoors for several more hours,

with no refuge from the night available to us,

and only a truck

in a truckman's yard in a closed-for-the-night,

wholesale fruit and vegetable market,

and we in its dark recesses.

We were hitching and we arrived there.

And Christine was worried by the darkness and the lonely

location.

 

One truck,

and the truckman had just awoke, and was starting up his truck.

I ran over.

I ran over as a man who was kissing the dust before a saviour.

 

I explain him our situation. That all we want to do is get to a

motorway Services, or lacking that, back into Paris. We had to get

out. We were desperate.

He said "No".

But i wouldn't let him stay with it. He had to take us with him.

It was a question of life and death.

I became very frantic and very clear.

"There are no other trucks around. It is you or no one! "

To this passionate request, he could not refuse.

 

I believe there was one other time,

in all the years of my hitch-hiking,

in which i was forced to plead with all my heart.

To throw my body before a stranger and implicitly say,

"If you refuse me,

you will be conscious of having been

inhuman."

This is almost impossible for most people to accept.

 

And, by nature's natural balance, it is probably impossible

for a person, who is not in extreme circumstances,

to emit

the call of the desperate.

 

HITCHING ON THE FORECOURT

I've set my rucksack up just beside the door, under the awning

outside.

It's in clear sight from most everywhere on the forecourt.

And being adjacent to the door,

--through which all those paying for their petrol must pass

on their way to Eric, seated behind the counter within--

it gives the drivers a hint that a hitch-hiker is lurking about.

Who he is, when the Services is very busy --not the case now--

is not obvious;

roaming, as i might be through the store,

chatting, as i might be to the employees,

talking, with one or two of the drivers,

as i make lively, lively contact

with my social surrounds.

I become an important being:

one of the welcoming team

in this transient waystation.

I interest myself in everything.

My soul sings.

I sow joy here

as part of my self-decreed obligation.

But, also,

staging my preliminary dance, singing my preliminary song,

and then posing The Big hitch-hiker's Question.

And not stop dancing and singing till someone says "Yes!"

and i'm running for my rucksack

preparing for takeoff.

 

TIMIDNESS

Hitch-hiking is not for the timid,

though many a timid person hitch-hikes.

I suppose they rely largely

on a driver's unpressured, social conscience:

on his private recognition of someone in need

and his private, decision-making conscience.

"You have taken me", i suppose they implicitly say to the drivers,

"and i have not asked you.

You posed The Big Question to yourself

and because you said "Yes" to yourself,

you approached me."

 

A timid me,

hitch-hiking at a Service Station,

would stand immobile next to my rucksack,

as isolated cars separate out from the flood

and, into the Station, slowly cruise

in order to understand theStation's geography

and con out what route through it, or parking space in it, to take.

 

Timid me wouldn't make a move.

I would be as a statue, a timeless element of the Station's forecourt,

not following the car with my eyes,

refusing to react to any movements happening around me,

solely concentrating on my own internal space and its dialogue,

What kind of being would i be?

 

Not even to think on hitch-hiking

and let the cosmos select the world i am to meet next,

what kind of being would i be?

 

i would be fashioning myself 'a guru' to an outside viewer.

To myself, maybe i would be testing 'the cosmos'?

Certainly, i would be 'going against the grain' of the life there.

I have never taken nor contemplated this ultra-passive mode.

It would lay too much psychic weight on the drivers.

It would pin me down too much, inside the car.

I like flexibility.

 

On this voyage so far, one guy,

--before i could say anything--

surprised me with a "Yes",

because he thought i was an artist.

He, looking out, had seen me through the glass door.

He had studied me and decided to take me.

(I, vaguely, recall someone looking at me through the Station's

glass door.

But i continued looking the other way

--out at the forecourt, 'looking for a lift'.)

 

HELP ALWAYS COMES

And even if i did not have within me

a guru image of myself

but assumed and radiated an extreme catatonic posture,

--and this is the deep truth of hitch-hiking--

there would always be a driver who would stop for me.

This market always clears.

For the gurus as well as the insane as well as the normal.

The offer is always finally matched.

 

It may take hours and hours,

like seven hours,

or a day and a half in quiet, quiet locations.

Or a week for a lift to cross a desert.

(I have never been so bold as to hitch-hike cross a desert

but have spoken to people who have.)

 

The writer of these lines admits to the speed disease.

As a hitch-hiker, I want to move fast.

Rarely, have i gotten into 'desperate' situations

where the next lift seems days away.

But it has happened.

Once, i was

up in northern Germany, on some side road in a small town,

a holiday-festival, blazing-hot, summer day.

The entire community is flying in happy, loving alcoholia.

Nobody is driving.

And the sun is beating down. And i'm taking it full blast,

but, being young, i brave ahead brutally,

continue to stand there in the sun,

(me, who reacts to the sun as an albino

with sunburn, eyestrain and headaches),

continue to flag at the rare car that passes.

I don't speak the language.

i have a fear of the people's drunkenness.

So i stay where i am, and continue to be

a weary, pleading youth

by the side of the road

signalling irrelevances to the local trickle of traffic.

Hours are passing and I am seriously dehydrating.

 

But there will always come along some human being

who takes an interest,

for one reason or another,

in a hitch-hiker

wherever he be, however he be,

whoever he be.

 

A police van pulls up,

i shout to them where i want to go,

continuing to play the hitch-hiker's role to the driver of the van.

They get out of their van and slowly approach me.

But because i don't speak German and they don't speak English,

the complexities are reduced.

I feel innocent as a one-day-old baby.

They mime something and say, "Passport!"

I give them my passeport.

I don't let that shake my sense of self as 'a hitch-hiker'.

They invite me into their van. I interpret it as a hitch-hike.

But, I am not as happy as i usually am. I am subdued.

They are not trying to speak to me. They are talking to each other.

I have become a pawn rather than a partner.

They take me to a Police Station.

They consult a machine. That takes thirty minutes.

Finally, being satisfied of my 'innocence',

satisfied also with my civility while with them,

they --for those reasons or for a matter of courtesy, or justice--

then, drive me out to a ferry-crossing,

pay for my ticket and buy me some food.

On the other side of the river, they point out

a very good road

for continuing my hitch-hike.

 

On that road, with not five minutes sun-kissed into the past,

Heinz comes along and stops

and seriously proposes to drive me to Great Britain.

We blast along at speeds in which mad youth exhilarates.

But i cannot really be inviting him to go out of his way several

days.

He is a radio, disc-jockey, regional 'star'. His life is soaring.

There is nothing he would not consider that has heart.

And 'Going to Great Britain to take a hitch-hiker home'

seems reasonable enough. Why not? He has a couple of days to

spare!

But i tell him "No. No. No." and he eventually finds real reasons for

driving me to a Service Station on the Motorway

and probably not the nearest.

 

The market always clears.

The hitch-hiker, somehow, eventually,

is home.

 

TIMIDITY AND ME

 

This timid type of human filter,

--filtering drivers

by timidly soliciting "Yes"--

this type of timid filter

who doesn't want to participate

in the drivers'

recognitions and the drivers' decisions

about The Big Question,

is not my

natural style of relatedness and happiness.

 

So mostly, and closest to my joy,

i'm an active hitch-hiker,

agile and happy,

talking with everybody, joking with everybody, bouncing

off everybody. Life is a playful carnival when i'm on the road.

Except, at special moments, when i panic.

 

Here's a driver just finished paying Eric.

He's approaching the exit door

outside of which i am standing, just alongside my rucksack.

He has just this instant passed me,

possibly seeing me looking at him.

 

(Most times, drivers just come out the door

and

behaving as if i don't exist, continue their trek to their car,

thinking of other things.

For them, i have to be outrightly audacious.)

 

With speed and boldness

i intercept him,

stop him in his path,

force his recognition of me,

confront him

with my preliminary song and dance,

...and, then.. pose The Big Question.

 

And, now,

i receive for the fifth time, the same response,

"I'd take you if i were going far.

I'm only going to Charles DeGaule airport."

 

THE TRUTH GROWS LARGE

UNTIL IT BECOMES INESCAPABLE.

AN UNDESIRED REALITY

INTERCEPTS ME.

"Fucking hell. Nobody's going further than the airport."

And I think there's a Service Station

just 5 kilometers beyond the airport.

But nobody is going further than the airport.

 

And many, too many, are taking the next exit.

This is mostly 'local traffic':

This Petrol Station is mostly a local convenience.

 

That which i cannot use now is 'local traffic'.

Such traffic will circulate within Paris forever

and i want to leave Paris now.

By the low 90's of their number plates, I can recognize local traffic.

 

My fate here is linked to the intercity car.

I'm dependant on the intercity crowd.

I have intercity goals right now.

Maybe that's the nature of life?

I could have said,

"My fate here is linked to the intracity car.

I'm dependant on the intracity crowd.

I have intracity goals right now."

But i didn't because

i have intercity goals right now.

i have stake in a biased reality.

But my intercity goals seem to be

out of reach from this Service Station;

my biased reality, a present insanity.

 

I go inside the Station,

and pose a query to Eric who responds,

"Ohh Yeah. Yesterday was the last day to buy petrol

before the added tax comes into effect.

So everybody filled up yesterday."

I should have known what that meant when he said that.

He's mostly talking about the local traffic.

But i didn't pick that up

and i go out to do a stint of hitch-hiking,

and receive the same two answers:

"I'm going to the Airport. I'll take you if you want to go,"

or

"I'm getting off the next exit. "

 

So i pop again into Eric's domain,

and tell him of my findings:

that "no-one is going beyond DeGaulle."

"Ohh Yes", he says.

"They've built a new motorway which goes north.

This station is no longer used."

 

HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL

And now,

i had to confront suddenly

a truth

that another hour or two

of whatever i might do

could not alter:

"My favorite hitching place has become a fucking dead-end."

Fucking Hell.

What am i now going to do?

I have to get back to Brighton in two day's time.

 

In my hitch-hiking plans,

i never considered other transport solutions.

I didn't search out the buses that, for a whack of money,

would carry my body from Paris to London.

Perhaps, i should have put more energy into that?

All my eggs went into the hitch-hiking basket.

My only backup

is a very costly, one-way train ticket.

Fucking Hell!.

 

But still the cars and trucks are roaring by.

They all can't be going to the airport!

There must be a few going further.

And a certain percentage of this few,

no matter how small,

must have been given, in the last few minutes, a need

by

The Cosmos:

petrol

or something else

this deadened Services can offer.

Relying on this meagerest of chances,

i return to doggedly asking everybody for a lift.

And the same two answers are repeated and repeated.

Except for

two cars which went too far.

They actually didn't know

they had passed through Paris.

They were going back the other way.

Fucking Hell.

This is a dead-end.

I'll have to take the train.

Which means i have to get back to the center of Paris.

What a drag!

I'll try some more.

Maybe the dice

are not so perfectly loaded

against me?

 

THE COSMOS RESPOND

A guy pulls over to the side of the forecourt,

gets out,

makes a quick-step, round-trip to Eric in the Service Station

and then, gets behind the wheel and starts to

gun his motor.

i run over, intercept him and perform for him

my preliminary dance and my preliminary song

and he, in return,

gushes out,

" You are completely in the wrong spot.

Everybody is now taking a new motorway

that meets up with this one just beyond De Gaulle airport.

But i'll take you to your best place. Porte de la Chapelle."

With a hesitant and idiot response, i ask him,

"Is that in Paris?"

which i do in order to gain time

and think, and be able to say

--when he says, "Yes. It's in Paris"--

"Yeah. Why not? I got to get out of here."

 

And away i run to return with my wheeled ruck-sack

and take my seat alongside

this helpful guy.

He tells me that he is the local,

'Supervisor of Motorway Service Station Constructions'.

 

The Cosmos might have sent the best adviser that i can have

for the rut i am in.

But it's not sure.

People who are not hitch-hikers do not necessarily know

all the hitch-hikers' problems.

 

After all,

Eric must think that i finally did get a lift

beyond DeGaulle Airport.

I didn't tell him why i was leaving.

I left like any successful hitch-hiker.

So the next hitch-hiker,

who wants to hitch-hike from his Station,

will receive the same 'helpful aid' he had given me.

Unknowingly, he is hurting us.

But i am also responsible.

I should have ran into the Station and told him why i was leaving

before i left.

It would have taken 30 seconds more.

But i was in an irrational hurry.

I was irrationally frightened of losing this lift:

that he might drive off without me

--something that never, ever happened to me,

once a "Yes" was given--

I was thinking only of myself.

Not of the other hitch-hikers who will come after me.

Don't i want to aid them?

Can i not control my irrational panic to aid them?

I don't like myself

when i bow to my irrational fears

and think only of myself.

It makes me feel very little, petty.

 

THE COSMOS

RETURNS ME TO SQUARE-ONE

"Everybody who hitches NORTH out of Paris,

hitches from the place

i'll take you to."

 

"But that's the problem", i think to myself.

Hitching

from the standard locations

means

hitching

alongside of ten other hitch-hikers.

And that has its

problems.

 

Firstly there's a problem for men to get a lift

when a woman is there.

No matter how long you're there,

And no matter how recent she's there,

And no matter where in the queue she is,

the car will stop in front of her,

and the hours, for us men, will pass in semi-despair.

 

Secondly, there is the explicit competition

when several people are hitching.

In such a situation, i try to enter into

some sort of accord with another hitch-hiker.

"If you get a lift and there is room for another,

will you ask the driver for me. I'll do the same for you."

That is the best i can do, i think.

It creates a comradeship

that truly is lacking

when you find yourself in

a pack of competing, (though unspoken), hitch-hikers.

 

Another technique is to separate oneself off

from the whole line of hitch-hikers

by going up the road a hundred yards.

Those drivers, who refused to stop,

--because they saw no way round

the unpleasant making of a choice--

seeing a lonely guy

and feeling a little guilty

for not having picked up

someone

from the dotted line of hitch-hikers,

might stop.

 

So, here i am going back to square one. As though i was a novice.

But its in Paris,

and if square one doesn't work out,

there is always the Metro.

 

I know, now, where he's going to take me!

It is the standard, uncreative solution!

The solution mated to the self-image of

the classic, side of the road hitch-hiker.

What the Henri Barbusse-no 149 Bus-Service Station solution

saved me from!

Why didn't i think of it at the Service Station, ten minutes ago?,

think of it, instead of the train,

as an alternate solution?

 

Strange. I had completely forgotten

the ordinary hitch-hiker's solution

for going North out of Paris,

the solution that every once-young Parisian

can offer the

hitch-hiker.

 

And now we arrive.

He circles to a stop

at a corner of a vaste intersection

of boulevard and motorway spaghetti.

"Right there", he says as he points.

"Right under that car bridge, on the left hand side of the

road.

All the traffic going intercity, northwards,

takes that left hand choice.

And they can easily stop there, too."

I look out

at his solution,

and realise its possibilities.

But it's a side-of-the-road,

beckoning-with-a-sign, style of hitch- hiking.

Maybe there's some better place in this mishmash of traffic?

Yes.

There's the red and green light system that's controlling the flow.

I could stand next to one of them

and, on the red signal,

do my song and dance to the unmoving drivers,

and get a "yes" before the light turns green.

 

Ahh No.

Its not so good. I have my bulky, bulky rucksack.

The driver has to get out of his car

and unlock the boot

to store my rucksack.

It's too complicated for the little time

the red-light system gives me.

No. I'd better first try the solution given me by

The Supervisor of Service Station Constructions.

 

 

BEFORE A GRUELLING PROSPECT

The temperature has jumped downwards a few degrees,

and the wind is blowing a bit harder than at the Service Station.

"I better dress warmly before i start hitching", i say to myself.

"This could take several hours."

"I'll put on my heavy sweater",

i decide to myself,

as i make my way to the left side of the left mouth of traffic.

 

I step on the 30 foot-long slab of concrete sidewalk

adjacent to the roaring, absorbing mouth

into which the mess of traffic plunges,

and stop and pause and look around.

 

No one is here. Thank God. No hitch-hiking competition.

Competition drives my spirit downwards.

I don't know how to handle competition.

I talk with it and manage a warmth that's just skin deep.

This ambivalent, emotional reaction,

to my fellow hitch-hikers,

does my sense of righteousness in.

I am confronted with a me whom i don't like.

 

I better

get my sweater out from the rucksack

and also get my notebook out

and draw a large, visible, colorful sign

on one of its pages,

like

"GOING NORTH?

I'M FOR CALAIS."

I get my sweater out,

and also my notebook.

 

I have not yet got out my colour pens, when,

all of a sudden,

as i am shutting my rucksack's major compartment,

a big, black car with a smiling, round-faced driver

drops out of the noise-booming, rushing fluid

and slowly rolls friendily up to my perch

and stops his car.

For a moment, i assume he has broken down or something.

But he's still smiling at me

even after i do my preliminary song and dance.

"I am a hitch-hiker.

I am going to Calais.

Are you going in my direction?"

But he's been smiling throughout my performance,

and throughout my performance

bobbing

Yes

with his head,

from before its beginning till even after its finish

smiling

and

bobbing Yes with his head.

He pops out of his car to open the boot for my dear rucksack.

I jump in, and away we go.

 

"How far are you going?" i automatically question.

"Don't worry. I'm going North and it's good for you,"

he confidently answers.

"Can you leave me off

at the last Service Station

before you leave the motorway?"

"Sure. If you want me to."

"Do you know the last Service Station?"

Sure. No problem. You'll be dropped exactly there."

 

Now, that i know that he will do me well,

i relax

and almost can't believe my luck.

"You picked me up even before i put out my sign.

I wasn't there for more than 30 seconds."

I give him a friendly tap on his shoulder nearest me.

"I really thank you."

and tell him my day's hitch-hiking story

but make it short. We have lot's of other things to talk about.

 

THE JOY OF HITCH-HIKING

So, away we speed.

And talk.

He's the managing director of a porcelain manufactury.

He's going to meet a client.

His company sells plates and cups and such like things.

The industry measures the amounts sold in tons.

The clients are charged by the piece.

And what clients he has.

Big institutions.

The French Army is one. But the Army's budget is down 30%.

So business is difficult now.

Also, some Eastern European firms,

using cheap, East European,

labor,

are undercutting the prices

with not such good goods, but good enough.

 

From powdered dried-clay

pressure-stamped by powerful, by powerful machines,

the plates are made.

Here's a guy who is in contact with his instincts.

Firstly, he feels the truth of a position

and, secondly, then he reasons.

He likes to be clear about things.

 

We entertain one another through our conversation.

Somehow, we get to define ourselves.

I am a man,

culpable

for having left his daughter

by leaving his family.

But i don't suffer from guilt feelings at all.

He is a man,

culpable

for participating in business meetings

at restaurant tables.

"Somehow, i think business and pleasure shouldn't mix.

It corrupts the business transaction", he tells me.

 

We were sailing along at high speed

and i felt so worldly comfortable

that i turned my experienced and helpful attention

from the menacing surrounds which high speeds create,

entirely to him and chatted,

and he from time to time would look my way with a smile.

He is an optimist.

"The glass is half-full,"

he tells me,

"and not

half-empty."

 

The disarming nature of this guy makes me like him.

He is, after all, my marvelous angel of salvation.

Before i saw him,

in the pose i was then contorting,

--preparing myself

for the great endurance test of my voyage--

he selected me.

I could have been seen as a very untogether, confused beggar-man

raking through his wheeled sack of possessions

for something or other.

I was not evidently a hitch-hiker.

I wasn't asking anything of anybody at that time

and yet he came over to me

and knew exactly what i wanted,

and "Yes", he can and will aid me.

Such is the magical hitching power of Porte de la Chapelle.

Such is the magical power of this marvelous angel.

Such is the Cosmos laughing.

 

 

And then isn't

that Director of Service Station Constructions

another angel of my salvation?

It was he that fetched me out of

the dry well

and posed me at the mouth of this navigable river.

 

And if that be the case,

and

two angels within me are made,

then,

aren't they the gift

also, of my difficulties, today?;

and, also,

--the last, and most unexpected gift it ever gave me--

of MY PARIS SERVICE STATION?

WHAT IS GOOD?

WHAT IS BAD?

THE WORLD CHANGETH.

THE COSMOS LAUGH.

 

After more than two hours of mutual enjoyment,

he,

who is culpable

--mixing business with pleasure--

leaves

me,

who is culpable

--having left a daughter--,

leaves me

50 kilometres south of Calais, just south of Bethune.

"Thanks a lot" , i make a point to tell him.

"This is one of the most thankful lifts i've ever had.

After the morning's frustration and energy loss,

before i could signal that i was hitch-hiking, you

offered me a lift. And what a lift! Two hundred miles or so!"

To this he answered,

"I used to hitch-hike when i was young,"

and off he drives to his business lunch,

and off i walk to the Station's Services

to hitch further and further away from my daughter,

having seen her in Toulouse.

 

HITCH-HIKING TIME

This Station's Services are empty.

My wait here, easily, can stretch into hours.

The traffic is so thin.

 

I know this type of small Station.

On all the French motorways i've travelled,

only at this extreme, narrow, unbranching end

--where the traffic is mostly Calais bound--

can you encounter motorway Stations so small.

They are the only ones whose toilet space

is bigger than their showroom space of their goods on sale.

There are about three of them. Small like this.

 

The crowded showroom

snuggly surrounds the electronic cash box

--eighty percent of whose money intake comes from petrol sales-

The vast spectrum of offerings

--beyond a pleasant display of sweets--

includes

an open, serve-yourself refrigerator

--with cold, bottled drinks--

and a robot which takes money

for its hot,

coffees and teas and soups.

 

This robot, as 'Homo Economicus' ---'Economic Man'---

is multifold, more valuable than me.

I am a horrendously frugal consumer.

As a producer, i am an expendable resource.

And i do like to hitch-hike.

3 STRIKES AGAINST ME

in my struggle for present survival.

I mention such considerations

to lay firm appreciation

for the level of humility, i must here enact.

I am standing in Business Territory.

 

This particularly small Service Station

is a business, founded on much need, and a touch of temptation.

"Have another sweety dear. It will be good for you!"

and the uphit

that coffee gives to the tired.

 

I have to be real nice to the station managers

at these types of

stations.

He and i might spend several hours together

in this very small, goods-for-sale-crowded room.

 

Outside, the wind-chill factor has become serious.

I don't want to spend more than the time needed

to pose my BIG QUESTION

to each driver

taking petrol from the pump,

or walking back to his car.

For, i feel obliged

to conduct my business outside.

and if the answer is negative,

to re-enter quietly, reverently, the manager's life's space.

Because he hasn't spoken to me at all,

dodging away from my offers of conversation,

I have to be real nice, tread real lightly, for this particular manager.

 

I better tune-in to what he is doing,

dissipate any doubts he might have

about my presence amidst his interests.

I'm here to be of service, if i can.

I am in a situation of cumulative indebtedness

as the minutes tick on.

 

He continues to busy himself.

He hasn't stopped since i've gotten in.

As though he's running away from conversation.

I won't press him. I'll be as light as a feather.

I'll have a paper cup of expresso from the robot

and, thereby, prove that i understand the social rules

and that i share the common temptations.

 

I'm in the same situation as being a hitch-hiker in a car.

But, at this Station now,

i am hitch-hiking TIME

and not SPACE.

Does this mean

that

when i am a hitch-hiker in a car

speeding in the direction i want to go,

i am actually, also,

hitch-hiking TIME?

Of course, Yes.

The world-space inside the speeding car

and

the world-space inside the immobile service station,

are

not of 2 distinct, separable stuffings,

but are ultimately of inseparable, identical stuff,

distinguished by unimportant ephemera.

They are ultimately 1.

And i am smuggling my SPACE-TIME into them both,

fusing with them both.

i am hitch-hiking.

And the YES-saying driver --if he be humble enough--

would see that

one of his own, internal SPACE-TIME WORLDS

is hitch-hiking, smuggling into,

the world space

made by his car and this stranger, me.

 

Whose driving anyhow?

'The Car'

'The Driver'

or 'Me'?

 

Or, why should i attribute special status to a car's TIME?

Am i not always in my own, LOCAL SPACE-TIME?

When particulars change,

to coincide with one of the infinite varieties

of SPACE-TIME the cosmos offers me,

why should i care?

Another particular will follow,

whatever i do.

Perhaps, a particular beyond my wildest dreams?

 

Enough of all this flimsy, flamsy!

I'm a hitch-hiker, obliged

to get my ass to Brighton, England

quick-time.

Standardized, Tick-Tock Time

and

Ordinance-Survey-Map Space

are cracking the whip, calling the tunes.

State-kept Tick-Tock-Time,

State-kept Ordinance-Survey-Space

are reaping their harvest.

The mice must scramble for the owner's have returned.

Cindarella's midnight is beginning to clang.

 

 

FREEDOM AND OPPORTUNITY

VERSUS THE PLAN

I know i have given up my freedom

in accepting such institutionalised space-time constraints.

Indeed, i have never, for share pleasure, hitch-hiked intercity.

And in so far as i haven't done that,

i haven't burst the bounds of

the societally-defined 'hitch-hiker'

--who always is going to a particular somewhere--

and truly leap into the emptiness

from which all things take their beginnings.

 

There have been many, many occasions

in my hitch-hiking life

in which i have had an opportunity to jump

from my pre-planned path

and follow an offer.

On nearly every trip, there is an offer.

 

On this return part of my voyage,

as i was going north on the motorway up from Toulouse,

fusing with the North-bound traffic

roaring upward

from the Italian andFrench Riviera,

as i was hitch-hiking at a Station

just South of the turnoff for Charmonix

--the same ski-resort as

those young un's at Calais were hitching to-

i met

a team of three video makers

on their way to this same ski resort, Charmonix.

They were going to do some filming up there.

 

My preliminary song and dance

must have impressed them.

The director really wanted me to accept a lift with them.

His solid confidence was clearly there for me to see.

He radiated his success in an easy and confident style.

 

Somehow, he caught something attractive in my being.

Why didn't i go with them,

propose a deal to work with them for no cash but lots of learning?

And wouldn't those hitchiking young un's be surprised at seeing me?

And wouldn't they be of aid, if aid i needed?

Charmonix? Dare i?

 

"NO. Not this time. I must go quickly to Paris," i, illogically, reasoned to myself

as i have done hundreds of times before.

And yet, there were no 'musts'.

"I'm sorry i can't go with you," i feebly expressed to them.

Ahh. Life was on offer

and i was too foolish, even to hesitate.

 

There's always invitations to take another path.

Follow the wind.

And if your light enough, you will be as the wind.

So that on every trip

an invitation will occur,

which seems promising and adventurous.

 

Hah. Advice is easy.

I never have truly, truly leapt.

i never have accepted complete freedom.

I'll try to sometime in the future just go off and wander.

Be open to the offers.

Wander to wherever.

 

PRESSING ON

But now i have a goal squeezing me.

It grabs me all of a sudden.

When i'm getting interested in something else,

it says,

" Time to get going. Time to be off."

I got to get to Calais Port.

 

Two spanish lorry drivers have sort of tumbled in, making it

pretty crowded as they stand next to me, talking, talking.

They are too wrapped-up in talking to each other,

really enjoying each other,

to think about what has to be done here,

what social graces to exhibit,

what purchases to make.

They are at ease and they talk and enjoy talking.

 

One of them brushes passed me,

squeezing in to the narrow space

between

the robot machine

which exchanges hot drinks for money

and my body

as my body is pressing itself against the cash register's counter.

 

"The toilet is bigger than this showroom"

i would have joked to him,

in spanish

if i could.

 

I was amazed when i had first entered the toilet.

It was as large a toilet as you would expect

in a fairly large Service Station.

And well looked after.

 

The spanish drivers are now drinking their coffees,

and continuing their easy chat chit.

They're really enjoying their conversation.

They're probably together in the same lorry,

so there'll be no room for me.

But i'll just chat a bit with them in my Spanish.

"Hola. Tonto soy jo. Amigo del fuego y tomatos

y, la mas fuerte de todos mis deseos,

es la obsession que

soy autostoppo con siblo unico:

estar al Puerto de

Calais!"

Any way, i want to practice my spanish.

Maybe i want to prove myself to the Station manager?

Maybe, i want to lie to you, the reader?

Maybe, i stammered out some other approximate gibberol

which, more or less, served

as a spanish translation of

The Big Question?

 

The truth is as i had divined.

They are in the same lorry. There is no room.

They are going to Great Britain.

 

BINGO!

I got a feeling that nearly everybody

who walks into this petrol station's showroom

is going

to where i want to go,

Calais Port,

and going with a rush that i want to share.

 

Some other drivers come and go.

Lightheartedly i press my needs.

I let them enter and get adjusted to the atmosphere.

I feel like a millionaire.

All the signs flashing

"No further problems now."

The next lift is Calais Port.

I won't take less.

And there's four hours yet of daylight..

 

If a guy doesn't decide to pop a drink

and hang around invitingly,

i'll open the door for him and follow him out

and catch up to him by his eighth step

and do my song and dance to him alone.

But nothing goes.

But i don't care. I'm well placed. I'm sure to get a lift, soon.

 

A young guy between 25 and 30 years old

is at the petrol pump.

The car's plate is foreign.

I go up to him and, speaking in French,

do my preliminary song and dance.

He doesn't answer; as though he is confused.

I ask, but now in English,

"Do you speak English?"

"Yes...i am studying in an English university.

I'm going to London"

and he says this with a European accent i can't identify.

 

"Hey... Could i go with you? I'm hitch-hiking."

"Sure.."

 

And this part of the hitch-hike i will not detail.

I become, for this young man, an older acquaintance

who had once, also, studied economics in London.

 

Yes. This hitchhike was unique;

i, the hitch-hiker, felt older than the driver.

Usually, i am so attentive to the driver and his interests,

that i lose my sense of me, and become me,

as i was, at my beginnings,

when everybody was more important than me.

I become the young kid watching men working,

standing and watching

with great concentration

and asking them questions

and trying to learn how things are done.

There was psychic room in my family for me, the youngest, to do

that..

 

At three in the afternoon,

i am walking London's streets.

One minute from the Underground station, Mile End,

and thirty minutes from

my friend John's digs at Highbury-Islington,

to which i have the keys,

and, from there,

an Underground

eight minute

paid train-ride

and then a paid bus-ride

two hours distant from

Brighton.

I am not a purist.

I play the waves.

 

 

 

 

 

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Chapter Four

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